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The King Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Wack and Dangle Job T 
Chronic Fixation S 
Elusive Dream (pitch 1 only) T 
Four Guns Blazing S 
Kingdom Come S 
Prince, The T 
Working Wives S,TR 

The King Wall  

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Page Views: 8,445
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Jun 4, 2007






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The King Wall as seen from the left end. photo by...

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Located behind the Emperor Slab is the tremendous King Wall. This wall, at roughly 300', hosts some of the Adirondacks premier hard face routes. When looked at, the cliff resembles a large concave face; gently overhanging at the center right end, and it seems relatively devoid of anything climbable. As a result, many of the routes here are bolt protected and very thin.

Unlike the easy access to many Adirondack crags, this mysterious cliff is guarded from the road by a 25 minutes uphill slog through a thick forest and a wet, loose gully.

This cliff IS worth the hike, even if you aren't a climber. It is truly a magical place with a very powerful aura unlike anything else you've experienced in the Dacks.

Getting There 

The "trailhead" is located on route 73 directly across the road from the Jewels and Gems Wall trail at the north end of the guard rail. Follow this trail through the woods where it is intermittently broken up by a steep, wet, and mossy wash. You'll pass a shorter wall on your right--this is NOT it--keep going for another 2-3 minutes. You can't miss it.

Climbing Season

Weather station 9.4 miles from here

7 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The King Wall:
The Prince   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Elusive Dream (pitch 1 only)   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 40'   
Chronic Fixation   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   
Four Guns Blazing   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Another Wack and Dangle Job   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Kingdom Come   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0     Sport, Aid, 4 pitches, 270'   
Browse More Classics in The King Wall

Featured Route For The King Wall
Matt McCormick on Another Wack and Dangle Job

Another Wack and Dangle Job 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  NY : Adirondacks : ... : The King Wall
This amazing route lies in the massive left arching corner on the left end of the King Wall. Pat Purcell aided the route to the existing anchor all the while intending for it to be a full length route. The potential to extend this free climb out the rest of the arch is definitely there!Scramble around left and back right across a scrappy ledge to reach the base of the left facing and overhanging corner. The start of the route is marked by a 2-bolt anchor which Purcell must have placed. Stem up t...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of The King Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Where the approach trail meets the wall.
Where the approach trail meets the wall.
Eric Albers on the opening moves of Kingdom Come 5...
Eric Albers on the opening moves of Kingdom Come 5...
Looking down right at The King Wall, from The Prin...
Looking down right at The King Wall, from The Prin...

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