Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
This is a new pitch starting off the Upper Ramp of Redgarden Wall, between upper Ruper and The Serpent. It goes to the 2-bolt anchor atop The Serpent's first pitch.
First, approach the route by doing something that takes you to the Upper Ramp. For a similar grade, maybe check out Evangeline (A0 through the roof above the 11a first pitch and do the spectacular 5.10+ 2nd pitch). Ruper, Rosy Crucifixion, Le Toit, Guenese, and many other routes can also bring you to the Upper Ramp.
The Serpent starts in a striking, left-facing, left-leaning dihedral. It quickly bust right out onto a hueco-ed face and climbs just above the leaning corner.
Start King Cobra 40’ left and uphill of The Serpent. Pull a low chossy roof into a small, LF corner, and then continue up the face via thin seams (5.8 R, small wires and RPs). About 50’ up, join the major, LF dihedral (in which The Serpent started). Stem up the steep corner (5.10) with good gear (0.5-2” cams). Pull over the lip of the dihedral, now more of a roof (crux), and join The Serpent above its last bolt. Climb the last 10’ of that route to a comfy ledge and 2 bolt anchor.
This is a fun pitch, worthy as a top-rope after leading P1 of The Serpent (no directionals needed), or as a lead. We TR'ed first to check it out and do some cleaning, but the gear is definitely good enough to lead this ground up.