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 ADVANCED
Kid Rock
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Kid, The 
Landlord, The 
Renter, The 

The Kid 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kurt Smith and Dave Hatchett, 1984
Page Views: 350
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Nov 4, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: The Kid climbs the detached slab right of Walk on ...

Description 

Make a hard move past the first bolt and continue up a long easy runout to the third bolt. Climb up to a steep headwall, clip the fourth bolt, and make a tricky step around to the right (5.8 R). Carefully climb up and left to the fifth bolt; a fall before clipping this bolt would be very serious.

Continue to the anchor and lower (100') to the ground with a 60m rope.

This is a fun route to do before or after Walk on the Wild Side.


Location 

The Kid climbs the left side of the detached slab down and right from the start of Walk on the Wild Side.


Protection 

Five bolts to a two-bolt anchor (all 3/8"). The 5.10a move at the first bolt is well protected, but there is a long runout on easy climbing between the second and third bolts, and a runout 5.8 move between the fourth and fifth bolts.

The route is about 100' long; you need a 60m rope to lower.



Photos of The Kid Slideshow Add Photo
Christa Cline making the crux move past the first bolt.
Christa Cline making the crux move past the first ...
The Kid
BETA PHOTO: The Kid
Liza Butler raps off after a successful ascent of the Kid, on Saddle Rock.
Liza Butler raps off after a successful ascent of ...
Comments on The Kid Add Comment
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By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 19, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R

A decent route to do when in the area, but as noted a fall at certain points on this route would not be a good idea.

Please note - 60 meter rope mandatory for lowering! There has already been one accident on this route due to lowering with a rope that was too short.

All the bolts have been replaced and are 3/8" with metal hardware at the anchors.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
May 27, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R

Bolt 5 is doubled for a shorter rap.

By Dave Daly
From: Temecula, CA
Oct 1, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R

I was too impatient for the "waiting line" for WOTWS and decided to do this. The runout got me 8 weeks in leg cast! :P So, make that 2 accidents Chris! HA!