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 ADVANCED
The Keep

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Babo Does Thailand S 
Bottom Feeder S 
Ghengis Bond S 
Medusa's Lover S 
Monkey's Bum S 
Nut Cracker S 
Tongue Thaid S 

The Keep  


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Administrators: Ryan Williams, Nate Ball, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Art Morimitsu on Dec 21, 2006
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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This area is new for Mountain Project, and is just getting started. Feel free to contribute!

Goes into shade late morning. The crag is named the Keep because it was kept secret until all the routes were bolted and climbed. Vertical to slightly overhanging good limestone.

Getting There 

From the 1-2-3 Wall head down the coastline away from the resorts. Near a jumble of boulders thru some bamboo you'll find a trail going to Duncan's Boot, Jungle Gym etc. when the trail splits go right.
From Duncan's Boot go right and around the next wall. Pass it and look for a wall with a deep canyon-like fissure (Jungle Gym). Go thru the fissure and drop down at its end onto a sloping ledge. Usually there is a fixed rope to help with the descent.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.8 miles from here

7 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Keep:
Ghengis Bond   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Medusa's Lover   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in The Keep

Featured Route For The Keep
Brian TR'ing the fantastic Medusa's Lover.

Medusa's Lover 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Asia : Thailand : ... : The Keep
Start on the boulder in the middle of the wall. Pull on, and make thin face moves for 40 feet. then, step up and left into a powerful bulge that offers some relief with tufa stemming. Take it easy on those tufas! pull up the tufas to a sharp pockety section, and clip the anchors. Lightner's guide lists this as 'one of the reasons you came to Siam.' I agree!...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on The Keep Add Comment
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By Robert MacKinnon
Sep 28, 2008
Routes (left to right):

Genghis Bond
Tongue Thaid
Lom Mon (Cyclone)
Bottom Feeder
Nut Cracker
Medusa's Lover
Babo Does Thailand
Monkeys Bum
By Dean Kure
Feb 26, 2012
everything here is freshly bolted with no polishing. by far the best crag on railey east for the 5.10-5.12a climber. start right and work your way left to the hard stuff and enjoy! every route deserves 2-4 stars