The Kachina Spires stand proudly over the upper reaches of Hell Roaring Canyon. Though relatively easy to approach, these towers feel remote and offer an unrefined climbing experience. Theyíre perched atop a soaring fin that juts into the canyon from itís southern edge and are obvious from the parking area.
To get down to the bottom hike clockwise around the first small arm of the canyon, passing a fence and keeping on slickrock as much as possible. There is a way to get down without fixing a rope but it involves crawling along a ledge system. We didnít see these ledges so we fixed a rope for a 30 foot section of cliff and used it to batman down and up.
Once you reach the canyon floor, itís worth taking an extra 15 minutes to check out the Barrier Canyon Style pictographs left by the Native Americans of the area. Theyíre located in a large alcove across from the spires and slightly down canyon.
This area went untouched by climbers until 1999 when Paul Ross and Paul Gardner bagged the North Tower. The following year Smith Maddrey and Wells Cambell climbed the South Tower from the opposite side of the fin calling their route Beyond the 80th Meridian. Regardless of which route you climb, you are likely to be the only ones in the canyon.
Use the Spring Canyon Bottom Road Approach as described on the main Hell Roaring Canyon page.
First... Bjornstad's description is backwards in Desert Rock IV regarding the north and south towers. This route is listed as "Kachina Tower North," in his guide.This seemingly minor detail cost me many hours of route finding! I also made the mistake of thinking the topo for "Beyond the 80th Meridian" belonged to this route. After aiding half-way up a loose crack right of the 80th Meridian route... the epiphany came! - this route does not start at the base of the tower!From the descent into H...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Correction on first ascents. The South Tower was first ascented by a route first up to the back ridge (via 5 pitches) then the final Tower section by Paul Ross and Paul Gardner (16th Oct 1999).The Route mentioned "Beyond the 80th Meridian" up the South tower came later as alternative pitches... and finished up the tower section of the Ross/Gardner route. The North Tower was first ascented by Paul and Andy Ross ( 1st May 2000)