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The Junk Ride 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jesse Zacher, James Stover, Rob Pizem
New Route: Yes
Season: All Seasons
Page Views: 503
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Feb 8, 2011

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Going down.


This nearly independent line offers plenty of adventure and some choss. All belays are on ledges. All belays are bolted. This is a route with a little bit of everything, but mostly the wide. A good time if you're into that sort of thing.

Pitch 1: Start up a dihedral that is thin and climb up to a large chossy ledge. Go up the perfect hand crack to below a roof. Traverse left and around the large roof, chimney up to where the large roof/block is broken, traverse right at the horizontal break. Do a mantle and continue traversing right until you reach a nice ledge with two bolts. ~110 feet.

Pitch 2: Climb up the obvious off hands to offwidth crack until it widens to a chimney. Keep thrutching until you reach a saddle where you can tunnel through the tower and climb the leaning pinnacle by stemming and chimneying. This gets you to a the shoulder and the anchor. Run out chimney climbing. ~160 feet.

Pitch 3: Traverse and clip one bolt, mantle to ledge and 4th class the traverse right and up to another saddle where the prominent summit begins and at a bolted anchor. 50 feet.

Pitch 4: This last pitch is the original summit pitch of the Tabeguache Tower route. Originally it had many empty holes that house shallow angles or beaks/peckers. With the go-ahead from the FA party, we replaced three of the six or so holes with bolts. This now goes free but can be aided as well with the use of the other holes. Stem up the saddle and lean across to clip the first bolt. Make an arete move to move up and reach the ledge, mantle, and surmount stacked choss. Clip another bolt and make a strenuous move on sandy slopers to the summit anchors. Clip in and make another move to reach the actual summit. ~60 feet.


The route is 10 yards up canyon, left of the Tabeguache Tower in the dihedral.

Rappel back to the saddle with a single rope. From here, rap down the backside of the tower in between the cliff face and the tower. Double rope rappel. Traverse the chossy ledge down canyon for about 50 yards. Rap bolts are placed on the wall for a single rope rap to the ground. They may be hard to spot. Look for the last rap anchors before starting up the tower as they can be seen easily from the ground.

The summit anchor and the double rope rap anchor has been beefed up with the addition of another bolt.


Single set from #0.5 to #1 Camalot. Double to triple set from #2 up to #4 and #5 Camalot. One or two #6s. Lots of slings. The bolts on the last pitch have been replaced.

Photos of The Junk Ride Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Follow the stars.
Follow the stars.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rob working the last pitch.
Rob working the last pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: James following the first pitch.
James following the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from the second pitch.
The view from the second pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Higher up and the beginning of the traverse on pit...
Higher up and the beginning of the traverse on pit...
Rock Climbing Photo: On the left is where you come from when doing the ...
On the left is where you come from when doing the ...

Comments on The Junk Ride Add Comment
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By Mickey Guziak
From: Grand Junction
May 12, 2015

The first pitch of this was pretty scary because of the choss factor, but also we went up the left side (chimney in large flake to loose block traverse). It started raining at the top, so we had to bail. Sorry for the beta here, this is mainly for when I go back. My rack for P1 SHOULD have been - Camalots- 2x 0.75, 3-4 #1, 4-5 #2, 2-3 #3, 2#4, nuts for the seam at the top, or you could makes a ballsy move and place a #4 or #5 in the roof crack. A finger-sized for the roof and start corner, I think I used a 0.5. Save a #2 for after pulling the first roof, a 0.5 for behind the bat-shit piles for the first part of the traverse, and #3 for the mid-traverse.

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