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 ADVANCED
Conrad Rock - Heart of Darkness Corridor
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Body Stem TR 
Heart of Darkness T 
Jungle (aka Apocalypse Now), The T 

The Jungle (aka Apocalypse Now) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jeff Webb, 1989
Page Views: 803
Submitted By: Kai Ewert on May 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Location 

The obvious widening splitter crack to the right of Heart of Darkness.

Description 

Start this crack with a bit of a corner on a flake, bypassing just about all of the hand-size portion of the crack. Climb the widening splitter to its end, then trend towards the anchor atop Heart of Darkness on face and arete.

The smoothness of the crack, the nice sharp edge (for use once it gets wider) and the variety of climbing on such short a climb make this an overlooked semiclassic.

Rated 5.10b in the Vogel guide for some reason.

Protection 

A single set of cams from hand size to as large as you care to carry, and a sling for horn that is the top of the crack.
The face/arete section has no bolts - heads up.

Anchor: bolts with chains atop Heart of Darkness


Comments on The Jungle (aka Apocalypse Now) Add Comment
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By Pat C
From: Honolulu
Apr 21, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

easy, but camalot 4 cams are real tipped. One can lieback this thing in like 30 seconds (as my following brother did).
By ChugachMan
Oct 26, 2009

Fun route to do while waiting for Heart of Darkness if someone is on it. If you're careful, and set it up right, can counterweight rap off top of crack instead of going to HoD chains... make sure you have it setup so it won't roll off though!
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Nov 7, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Gear for me was BD #3, 3.5, 4(way tipped out). The climbing is easy if you are comfortable in the wide stuff, but if you aren't, an old 4.5 or new 5 would keep the climbing less runout
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Dec 4, 2009

Rapping off the top of the crack would cut out half the route.