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Back of Beyond
Routes Sorted
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Fools Progress, The S 
Hot Patootie Bless My Soul S 
Journey Home, The T 
Katchina S 
Los Pantalones De Alex S 
Mud Head S 

The Journey Home 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: dudes from Tooele
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,017
Submitted By: Stevie Nacho on Jul 9, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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TP leading the third pitch of The Journey Home

Description 

This was the first route in the area and ascends the middle of the face via four pitches. Each pitch ends at a ledge with a bolted anchor. PITCH ONE: Climb straight up past three shiny bolts to a ledge that leads to a lieback crack Plug some cams and send to the next ledge with a chain anchor. PITCH TWO: Climb up and right via a crack. Clip a pin and bolts through a reachy bulge (5.10). Above this bulge, follow the ridge past more cracks, pins, and bolts to a big ledge. Clip the anchor at the back of the ledge. Note: there is an option at the start of this pitch to climb the cracks directly above the anchor and arch right above the bulge then follow the ridge to the top of the pitch (5.6) PITCH THREE. Climb the beautiful sheer face past cracks, bolts, and pins to a great ledge an another chain anchor. PITCH FOUR: Walk west via the ledge and move the belay to an exposed anchor at the end of the "gang plank." Climb directly above this anchor past cracks, bolts, and edges to the top of the sheer wall and a chain anchor. DESCENT: via raps down chain anchors to the gulley to the west.

Location 

Follow the trail past orange ribbons to the base of the ridge. This route starts about 100 feet up from the actual toe of the ridge. You know you are at the base when you see three fixe hangers in a short face above a great ledge. There is the option to start free soloing from the toe of the ridge till you reach the start of The Journey Home.

Protection 

A rack of cams up to a 3 camalot, slings, quickdraws. One rope will facilitate a descent. Double in sizes aren't necessary.


Photos of The Journey Home Slideshow Add Photo
The third pitch of The Journey Home.
The third pitch of The Journey Home.
The awesome exposed ledge on the top of the third pitch of The Journey Home.
The awesome exposed ledge on the top of the third ...
Awake1563 ready to start The Journey Home.
Awake1563 ready to start The Journey Home.

Comments on The Journey Home Add Comment
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By cdec
From: SLC and Moab, ut
Jul 13, 2012

Check out the Beta Photo of the wall on the main page. Helpful in figuring out which route is which. All the routes except The Fools Progress have shiny bolts.

Started on Katchina which works well. Great rock climbing, go do it.
By split161
Oct 8, 2012

thanks for putting these up, in all a fun climb!! didnt place any stoppers, just a set of cams will be plenty and some draws 12ish for the bolts.

finding the last rap station can be tricky...from the top rap to the bottom of the fourth pitch's "exposed anchors station" then straight down onto the slabby rock below to a one bolt/hanger with a rap hook which is impossible to see from above...then rap down into the gully(3 raps total)...fyi, the hanger and rap hook are loose on the last rap station
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Oct 8, 2012

The last rap can be avoided by scrambling down the rocky gulley. We were thinking about removing that anchor but left it because the gulley may be different when it fills up with snow necessitating a rope to help lower down.
Also, the 5.10 on the second pitch can be avoided by climbing directly above the belay via a right angling crack/flake system. Follow the right angling system then traverse right over the roof to a bolt. Travel straight up from there. The variation is 5.7 and enjoyably exposed at the right traverse.