The Joker 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | F.A. Alan Nelson & Richard Wright, 7/95 |
| Submitted By: | Peter Franzen on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Description This route starts about 10 feet to the left of the leaning tree on the main wall. It follows the slab up to an overhanging dihedral and then to some more straightforward climbing to the anchors.
Protection Quickdraws. 7 bolts & a 2 bolt anchor.
By Bill Wright Jul 16, 2002
| This is fun, varied route with a brutal and deceiving opening sequence. Above that is a weird flare that feels very awkward and insecure. Finally, it finishes with burly lieback moves. |
By richard magill Aug 21, 2002
| Did this route again last night and I have to say this is a pretty great line for a 6 bolt 11b. It overhangs the whole way and stays in your face with slippery feet and hidden holds - it couldn't be much better. I think it is one of the better middle 11 sport routes in all of Boulder Canyon. |
By Anonymous Coward May 14, 2004
| People tend to get shutdown on this route. Having a hair-raising and pumping experience on the onsight, I agree that this route is quality and fun. Having watched most climbers get shutdown hard, I understand why some do not regard it so highly. Relax, have fun, and pull hard - this route is cool. |
By Bob Rotert May 1, 2008
| Funny to see Elanor getting an 11+ rating and this route 11b on this site. I would agree with the 11 rating for this route. It actually feels harder than Elanor to me. From what I've seen with other folks climbing it, I bet Elanor gets onsighted more than this route. My point being Elanor at 11+ is probably quite over rated. The ratings in Bolter Canyon sure are wacky... But then BC is its own world. |
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO May 1, 2008 rating: 5.11b
| I think it is because Elanor one is more sustained and people burn out. I felt more pressed on that one. I suppose The Joker could be more technical, but doesn't punch as hard at the top.... |
By Brian Adzima From: Pittsburgh Jul 16, 2008
| Not very similar Elanor, there is a sit down rest 1/2 way, although it feels rather obscene. |
By OkieGirl From: Boulder finally Aug 10, 2008
| The opening moves are kind of reachy and the landing is not great and if you're short like me (5'4"), it's hard to hang the first draw from a safe stance. If the draw is already hung, clipping the rope is possible. Luckily, some nice boys let me use their stick clip pole thingy. |
By Phil Lauffen From: Louyuppie Jun 1, 2011
| Polished and Grovelly(sp?), with a necessary tree encounter at the top. There are more worthy warmups at Easter Rock. |
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