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Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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Warm-up T 

The Jagged Wedge 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 630
Submitted By: Charlie S on Mar 18, 2012

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Thad.. in the proper get up 2 get up..


Just to the left of the Warm-Up is a wide fists crack, turning into an offwidth halfway up. This is The Jagged Wedge. A fun route, but bring your lead head! See beta below.


Left side of the large "flake" the the Warm-up climbs.


Start out with a few BD #3s and a #4s, depending on your comfort level. Next the offwidth starts at #5s, progresses to a shoddy #6, and then too wide to take any other cams. Climb about 20-30 feet above your last piece using the offwidth for leg jams, acquire a small ledge, traverse left for a solid #2 placement, then move right on top of the gigantic flake for the anchors.

Photos of The Jagged Wedge Slideshow Add Photo
in the Wedge..
in the Wedge..
Getting to the "rest seat," contemplatin...
Getting to the "rest seat," contemplatin...
Working the start.
Working the start.
Very glad to be placing the first piece of protect...
Very glad to be placing the first piece of protect...
great climb that needs more traffic..
great climb that needs more traffic..

Comments on The Jagged Wedge Add Comment
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By Devin Fin
May 2, 2012

the beta posted for this climb is crazy! stay in the crack do not go left that would kill you if you blew that move. think choped in half. after your#6 dive in to the hart of this flake an use the crack in the back.. i have put in a lot time trying to figuer out how to climb this thing safley .. stay in the crack.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Jul 15, 2012

I doubt chopped in half, but thanks for the input. Had I known there was pro way in the back I would have ventured there. From my vantage point it appeared to be flat the whole way, and wasn't interested in a fall inside and the subsequent body wedge.

What sizes exist way back?
By Devin Fin
Oct 10, 2013

ok yer right not chopped in half.. but you would get hurt pretty bad. set the #6 kind of low ware it is good then a blue Big Bro fits really well then worm in for six feet ware a #1 crack is squeeze on up to a real cool top out.. thanks for posting this route.. it was one of the first OW squeeze's that shut me down like 3 times before i got it right. and it defiantly wasn't the last.. cheers DF
By Shelton Hatfield
From: Austin, Texas
Mar 18, 2014

This route has really fun, thoughtful climbing. I think you could probably use a blue and a gold BigBro if you have them. Make sure you don't kick out your #6 as you climb past it.
By LoganJamison
Nov 5, 2014

Fists to fun off-width moves to a good chimney. Placed a #6 then #5 camalot off the ledge, then nothing in the chimney, but it is quite secure if you get in it. Might be able to get gear in deep. I suck at OWs and this felt plenty safe to lead.
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