The Jagged Wedge 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Charlie S on Mar 18, 2012 |
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Getting to the "rest seat," contemplating the lack...
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Description Just to the left of the Warm-Up is a wide fists crack, turning into an offwidth halfway up. This is The Jagged Wedge. A fun route, but bring your lead head! See beta below.
Location Left side of the large "flake" the the Warm-up climbs.
Protection Start out with a few BD #3s and a #4s, depending on your comfort level. Next the offwidth starts at #5s, progresses to a shoddy #6, and then too wide to take any other cams. Climb about 20-30 feet above your last piece using the offwidth for leg jams, acquire a small ledge, traverse left for a solid #2 placement, then move right on top of the gigantic flake for the anchors.
Working the start.
| Very glad to be placing the first piece of protect...
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| Comments on The Jagged Wedge |
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By Devin Fin From: DURANGO May 2, 2012
| the beta posted for this climb is crazy! stay in the crack do not go left that would kill you if you blew that move. think choped in half. after your#6 dive in to the hart of this flake an use the crack in the back.. i have put in a lot time trying to figuer out how to climb this thing safley .. stay in the crack. |
By Charlie S From: Ogden, UT Jul 15, 2012
| I doubt chopped in half, but thanks for the input. Had I known there was pro way in the back I would have ventured there. From my vantage point it appeared to be flat the whole way, and wasn't interested in a fall inside and the subsequent body wedge. What sizes exist way back? |
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