The Iron Chef  5.7 A3+

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Type:  Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 550 feet, Grade IV Consensus:  5.7 A3+ [details] FA:  Chip Wilson, Steve Crusher Bartlett, May 13, 2007 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on May 16, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Iron Chef in blue. Phantom Sprint in red.

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Description 

Three sustained pitches. Pitches 1 and 3 are open faces with thin seams. Pitch 2 is a meat-and-potato pitch: long, muddy and strenuous.
1. Climb easy slabs for fifty feet to a steep wall. Follow a seam (A3) to a three-bolt belay (130', A3).
2. Move left into a slot angling up and right. Up this and the long continuation crack in the obvious muddy left-facing dihedral to a tiny perch and three-bolt belay (170', A3).
3. Gain a poor seam ten feet right of the belay and follow this for thirty feet to a bolt (invisible from below) and jog right into a better crack leading to a zone of broken and dirty ledges. Finagle your way through this zone to a crack in a flare. When this ends, tension left into an crack in an obvious deep slot; up this to the big ledge and a three-bolt belay (130', A3+).
4. Move right to join the North Chimney route. Grunt over a bulge, pass a few bolts, then climb mostly free up the chimney to the large ledge under the final bolt ladder (A1, 5.7R, 90').
5. Up the North Chimney/Phantom Sprint bolt ladder past about ten bolts (A0, 30')

Location 

The Iron Chef starts about forty feet right of Phantom Sprint.
Descent: Rappel the route (or rap Phantom Sprint)

Protection 

1 Rurp, 8 Birdbeaks, 10 Toucans, 3 Peckers (large), 2 Spectres, 2 Knifeblades, 4 Leepers, 6 Lost Arrows, 4 Standard Angles, 2 each larger angles to 2". Selection of nuts. Cams: 2- to 3 each from 0.5" to #5 Camalot.

Photos of The Iron Chef Slideshow

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Chip Wilson, Pitch 1 of Iron Chef	Toucan, pitch 2 of Iron Chef	Chip Wilson cleaning Pitch 2 of Iron Chef