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The Iron Chef 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A3+

Type:  Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 550', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A3+ [details]
FA: Chip Wilson, Steve Crusher Bartlett, May 13, 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,565
Submitted By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on May 16, 2007

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Toucan, pitch 2 of Iron Chef

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Three sustained pitches. Pitches 1 and 3 are open faces with thin seams. Pitch 2 is a meat-and-potato pitch: long, muddy and strenuous.
1. Climb easy slabs for fifty feet to a steep wall. Follow a seam (A3) to a three-bolt belay (130', A3).
2. Move left into a slot angling up and right. Up this and the long continuation crack in the obvious muddy left-facing dihedral to a tiny perch and three-bolt belay (170', A3).
3. Gain a poor seam ten feet right of the belay and follow this for thirty feet to a bolt (invisible from below) and jog right into a better crack leading to a zone of broken and dirty ledges. Finagle your way through this zone to a crack in a flare. When this ends, tension left into an crack in an obvious deep slot; up this to the big ledge and a three-bolt belay (130', A3+).
4. Move right to join the North Chimney route. Grunt over a bulge, pass a few bolts, then climb mostly free up the chimney to the large ledge under the final bolt ladder (A1, 5.7R, 90').
5. Up the North Chimney/Phantom Sprint bolt ladder past about ten bolts (A0, 30')


The Iron Chef starts about forty feet right of Phantom Sprint.
Descent: Rappel the route (or rap Phantom Sprint)


1 Rurp, 8 Birdbeaks, 10 Toucans, 3 Peckers (large), 2 Spectres, 2 Knifeblades, 4 Leepers, 6 Lost Arrows, 4 Standard Angles, 2 each larger angles to 2". Selection of nuts. Cams: 2- to 3 each from 0.5" to #5 Camalot.

Photos of The Iron Chef Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Iron Chef in blue. Phantom Sprint in red.
BETA PHOTO: Iron Chef in blue. Phantom Sprint in red.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chip Wilson, Pitch 1 of Iron Chef
Chip Wilson, Pitch 1 of Iron Chef
Rock Climbing Photo: Chip Wilson cleaning Pitch 2 of Iron Chef
Chip Wilson cleaning Pitch 2 of Iron Chef

Comments on The Iron Chef Add Comment
Show which comments
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
May 16, 2007

Kudos, Crusher! Excellent name. What is the "secret ingredient"? Mud?
By Brad Brandewie
May 17, 2007

"1 Rurp, 8 Birdbeaks, 10 Toucans, 3 Peckers (large), 2 Spectres"...

Well there's a gear list you don't see every day!

Nice work Crusher and Chip!
From: Winona
Oct 20, 2012

How are the rap anchors on this for descending Phantom? Is a bolt needed/helpful or are the anchors fairly new? Looks like the FA was 2007, is that correct? any info would be great!
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Apr 17, 2013

Three bolts on each belay. All good bolts, placed in 2007 (all are 4", most are half-inch). Top anchor has a good ledge, next one down has a small ledge for one person to stand or sit, lowest anchor has very little, semi-hanging with a sloping footledge as I recall.

Yeah, the rap line is pretty direct, might be quite convenient for rapping Phantom Sprint.

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