All Locations > California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Lower Merced Ri… > At. Reed's Pinn… > Reed's Pinnacle

The Iota

Name: The Iota
Rating: 2.7

5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British

Routes in Reed's Pinnacle

L › R R › L A › Z

	11c Toprope Arete TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	589 (Per Clint Cummins Guide Book) Unknown (Per Sloan Guide Book) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Beyond Lunacy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Beyond the Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Bong's Away Center T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bongs Away, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Children of Light S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Chingando T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Deer Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dr. Fun Time T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Dream Easy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ejesta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Flatus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Footprints S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Independence Pinnacle, Center T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Iota, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Lunatic Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Magical Mystery Tour T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Ol' 5.10 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Olga's Trick T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Open Your Eyes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Phantom T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
	Porter's Pout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Reed's Erect T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Reed's Pinnacle Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Remnant, Center, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Remnant-Left Side, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Remnant-Right Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Rocket In My Pocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Rorp, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Scrunchy-Mungy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Spring Fever T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Steppin' Out T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Stone Fist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Stone Groove T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Stone Groove (full) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unnamed 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA:	Wally Reed, Bill Henderson, 1956
Page Views:	2,890 total · 22/month
Shared By:	Bryan G on Apr 29, 2013
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations. Details

Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.

Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.

Description

The regular route up the Iota is a fun chimney climb. This combined with The Deer Route and The Remnant-Right Side makes for a great circuit of spelunking adventures. The start is approached by scrambling up and around the left side of the Iota. Here you will enter into a great chimney which divides the Iota from the main wall. Crossroads is a bolted 5.13 face which can be found in this chimney.

Start with a boulder problem and mantel to get into a tunnel which leads out onto the face and the top of Chingando (this is also how you can access a TR setup for Chingando). Climb straight up the obvious chimney to the top. There's not any pro.

To get down, either rappel from slings, or walk to the back left side of the Iota and make a short steep downclimb (there should be a fixed rope with knots tied in it that you can "batman" down).