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Reed's Pinnacle Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
11c Toprope Arete 
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left 
Beyond Lunacy 
Beyond the Fringe 
Bong's Away Center 
Bongs Away, Left 
Chingando 
Deer Route, The 
Dr. Fun Time 
Dream Easy 
Ejesta 
Flatus 
Independence Pinnacle, Center 
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) 
Iota, The 
Lunatic Fringe 
Olga's Trick 
Phantom 
Porter's Pout 
Reed's Pinnacle Left 
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route 
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route 
Remnant, Center, The 
Remnant-Left Side, The 
Remnant-Right Side, The 
Scrunchy-Mungy 
Steppin' Out 
Stone Groove 

The Iota 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Wally Reed, Bill Henderson, 1956
Page Views: 218
Submitted By: Bryan G on Apr 29, 2013
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Description 

The regular route up the Iota is a fun chimney climb. This combined with The Deer Route and The Remnant-Right Side makes for a great circuit of spelunking adventures. The start is approached by scrambling up and around the left side of the Iota. Here you will enter into a great chimney which divides the Iota from the main wall. Crossroads is a bolted 5.13 face which can be found in this chimney.

Start with a boulder problem and mantel to get into a tunnel which leads out onto the face and the top of Chingando (this is also how you can access a TR setup for Chingando). Climb straight up the obvious chimney to the top. There's not any pro.

To get down, either rappel from slings, or walk to the back left side of the Iota and make a short steep downclimb (there should be a fixed rope with knots tied in it that you can "batman" down).

  • Trip Report with photos
www.supertopo.com/tr/The-Iota-Chimney-A-Super-Awesome-Must-D>>>



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