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Flying Flatiron
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Inside Passage, The 
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The Inside Passage 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Paul Glover, Christian Huber, Kirk Speers
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,970
Submitted By: Paul Glover on May 28, 2010
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Paul Glover leading through his climb Inside Passa...
Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the largest overhang in Boulder and the coolest thing I've ever done - which is saying absolutely nothing. The route climbs the 45 to 50 degree ceiling of a cave and exits through a natural arch. There is a crux right off off the ground (5.11) and another crux halfway (5.11c). There is a rest at 1/4 distance (lay on your hip on a flake), and a luxurious bivvy site at 2/3 distance atop Pigeon Prow, followed by a 5.11 R/X finish out a chossy A-frame. Route was lead in July of 2008 as a head-point, but that didn't count because I wore shoes. I finally got it right in 2010.


Location 

Half way up the south side of the Flying Flatiron is a cave which is clearly visible from the Maiden. Scramble up into the cave. This is the Devil's Arch, not to be confused with the summit arch of the Flying Flatiron. The Inside Passage climbs the flake/crack system through the ceiling.


Protection 

Rack to 3.5.

Highlights:
A green Alien way up and right protects the first move. Weight test it to make sure it is seated properly. Place a yellow Alien sized cam in a ceiling crack just above the first piece.

At the transition from the crack to a large prow (Pigeon Prow aka the Poop Deck) blindly fiddle in a small wire behind a block with a horizontal crack on the edge of Pigeon Prow.

The A-frame protects with medium cams. Be careful on this shitty section. The crack above took a small nut and and an off-set yellow/green alien for the last piece.



Photos of The Inside Passage Slideshow Add Photo
Resting up on good horns before the crux.
Resting up on good horns before the crux.
Paul Glover just past the crux on his barefoot redpoint of his climb Inside Passage (placing all gear); 6/26/10.
Paul Glover just past the crux on his barefoot red...
Looking through the arch (at left, overexposed by sunlight) into the cave as Inside Passage moves onto Pigeon Prow.
Looking through the arch (at left, overexposed by ...
Paul pulling out the gear on toprope on his route The Inside Passage (5.13a R).
Paul pulling out the gear on toprope on his route ...
Inside the slot, a good ways up The Inside Passage.
Inside the slot, a good ways up The Inside Passage...
Topping out the finishing face after 100 feet of climbing...pumped, cottonmouth, pumped, pumped.
Topping out the finishing face after 100 feet of c...
Ted, 'making flash,' The Inside Passage.
Ted, 'making flash,' The Inside Passage.
The slot; starting the voyage.
The slot; starting the voyage.
The drop knee and final hard move - a long reach to the bathtub.
The drop knee and final hard move - a long reach t...
Comments on The Inside Passage Add Comment
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By Jim Redo
May 30, 2010

Fantastic description, Paul!

By Pinklebear
Jun 10, 2010
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c R

This route is totally bitching and totally unique - a 100-foot overhang at a consistent 45 or 50 degrees past vertical. Hats off to Paul for his vision for this wild line.

The opening crux is heads-up, though the gear is good; and the final third is wayyy heads-up, as in load up as many small and medium pieces as you can off Pigeon Prow before railing left to the lip of the A-frame.

You're never more than 15 or 20 feet off the deck at any point in this giant slot-cave, so you need to make every piece count - luckily, they're almost all bomber, if not pumpy as hell to place. Good body english and trad-resting techniques will help with recovery as you make the moves; the overall pump is savage.

Rock on!

By Stefan Griebel
Jun 18, 2010

Dang, I loved you're original description.... It was so classic! Maybe you can repost the text as a comment?

By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
Jun 27, 2010

Kudos, fellas. This thing sounds and looks badass. I gotta at least go have a look at it, even though it's way too hard.