Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
This is an overlooked and under-traveled pitch. The unappealing start (awkward, but not bad) is followed by a great second half. Were the entire pitch like the upper half, there would be a line from it daily.
Scramble up easy territory to the Touch and Go roof a few meters left of that start of that route. Place a #3 Camalot overhead in a short section of solid crack and pull up and right past that gear into a the bottom of a left-facing flake. That flake rises up and left on laybacks and underclings with solid gear and great holds. Too bad the whole route is not made like this section. After passing the top of this flake, move up a few moved in a shallow, right-facing corner to a ramp/ledge.
You can improvise a belay at that ledge or continue. The best continuation is to go up to the first bolt of Bolting for Glory and continue up and left on the same diagonal line to intersect the upper pitch of Touch and Go and finish that pitch to the anchors for a 140' pitch with little or no rope drag, provided you put slings on key gear placements.
A few meters right of the bottom of Touch and Go there is a second line in the cliff that starts below the same roof.
Nuts and cams to 3" and a few extra if you run this up into Touch and Go as a single pitch (recommended). You can rap from the top anchor on T&G with a 70m rope if you stay left on rap.