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Redgarden - Tower Two
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
10,000 Leagues 
After The Gold Rush 
Avoid the Rush 
Bolting for Glory 
Briny Deep, The 
Cave Pitch 
Centaur 
Contest, The 
Diving Board, The 
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) 
Fools Learn 
Genius Loci 
Ghoul's Turn 
Green Willow Wall 
Inset, The 
Jules Verne 
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation 
King Tut 
Le Void 
Lene's Dream 
Love Minus Zero 
Naked Edge, The 
No Lo Contendere 
Old Bad Aid Crack 
One Way Out 
Orifophobia 
Plastic Jesus 
Predator 
PsychGillLogical 
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent 
Rosy Crucifixion 
Scratch and Sniff 
Seams Beyond 
Seize of Holds 
Serpent, The 
Shasta 
Sickness Unto Death 
Slots of Fun 
Slow Train Coming 
Superlink, The 
T2 
T2 Direct Finish 
Touch 'N' Go 
Weeping Willow 
Wild Kingdom 
Wingless Victory 

The Inset 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Season: Faces South
Page Views: 168
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 1, 2011
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  • Description 

    This is an overlooked and under-traveled pitch. The unappealing start (awkward, but not bad) is followed by a great second half. Were the entire pitch like the upper half, there would be a line from it daily.

    Scramble up easy territory to the Touch and Go roof a few meters left of that start of that route. Place a #3 Camalot overhead in a short section of solid crack and pull up and right past that gear into a the bottom of a left-facing flake. That flake rises up and left on laybacks and underclings with solid gear and great holds. Too bad the whole route is not made like this section. After passing the top of this flake, move up a few moved in a shallow, right-facing corner to a ramp/ledge.

    You can improvise a belay at that ledge or continue. The best continuation is to go up to the first bolt of Bolting for Glory and continue up and left on the same diagonal line to intersect the upper pitch of Touch and Go and finish that pitch to the anchors for a 140' pitch with little or no rope drag, provided you put slings on key gear placements.


    Location 

    A few meters right of the bottom of Touch and Go there is a second line in the cliff that starts below the same roof.


    Protection 

    Nuts and cams to 3" and a few extra if you run this up into Touch and Go as a single pitch (recommended). You can rap from the top anchor on T&G with a 70m rope if you stay left on rap.



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