Climb lower angled rock right of the first, interesting but chossy roof in a dihedral. Traverse left to another dihedral and snake through a fun vertical section on large holds. Finish on a thin, somewhat lichen covered but lower angled face.
Good holds and gear are available, but you'll have to look around. Much more fun vertical climbing than most 5.4s but too short as usual.
Route starts left of the large roof on the east face of the 2nd pinnacle, perhaps 20 feet left from Slot. Walk off from the West Bench, rap from the West Bench eye bolt back into the Amphitheater or continue to the summit of the 2nd pinnacle as another pitch (Upper East Face 5.7).
Protection is available but the rock is suspect in many places. Small cams place well in pods to sew it up. New leaders should evaluate rock quality carefully. No fixed anchor at the top but you can traverse right to the West Bench eyebolt for fixed pro. Topout is thin on gear without being creative.
Oct 1, 2011
Prospective from a new trad leader :)-> Being a moderate sport climber and brand new to trad, this was only be my 5th trad lead, it seemed the protection is more than suspect for someone at my level.
I would find one good placement, then double up two not so great placements. I spent a lot of time looking around for better areas to place protection but could not find them.
Maybe my bad ones were better than I thought, but I really couldn't find anything else better, I spent an hour climbing a 5.4 looking around for better pro.
Also, the 5.4 seemed harder than most 5.4s, but maybe that was because I was having problems finding good pro.
Anyway, my other 4 trad leads have been 5.6s with bomber protection to place and no problems.
My opinion and a small warning to the inexperienced like me.
|By Ben Burnett|
Sep 2, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a R
The "Description" above makes little sense, but the "Location" is correct. The inset refers to the panel of rock that is set back into the wall somewhat - bounded by dihedrals and a roof. The inset is easiest if you start on the right side, but exciting moves can be found by starting in the middle or left side of it. Pass the roof on the right and either continue up and right to the Slot or move left to a small roof and right-facing dihedrals.