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 ADVANCED
The Amphitheater
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2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner 
2nd Pinnacle, Upper East Face Right 
D.A.'s Route 
Dialysis Bag 
Direct North Face 
Direct to top of Second Pinnacle  
Direct West Bench [formerly listed as variation] 
Diversion 
East Bench Dihedral 
Finger Crack (onT-Zero) 
First Pinnacle SE Face 
Inset, The 
Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) 
Juniper Crack (1st pinacle) 
Left Variation (1st pinnacle) 
Macropsychotic 
McCrumm's Crack (1st Pinnacle) 
North Face of the West Bench (2nd Pinnacle) 
Northeast Chimney 
Now and Zen 
Outside East Face 
P.S. I'm Blonde 
Pizza Pie Crack 
Red Gully, The 
Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane 
Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) 
Second Pinnacle East Face 
Second Pinnacle South Face 
Shortcut 
Siberian North Face 
Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] 
South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) 
South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) 
South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) 
Southeast Arete (1st pinnacle) 
Standard Inside East Face 
T-Zero West Face 
Tyrolean Traverse 
West Bench Dihedral 
West Face (of T-Zero) 

The Inset 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: August thru January
Page Views: 227
Submitted By: Chris Plesko on Oct 1, 2009
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  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    Climb lower angled rock right of the first, interesting but chossy roof in a dihedral. Traverse left to another dihedral and snake through a fun vertical section on large holds. Finish on a thin, somewhat lichen covered but lower angled face.

    Good holds and gear are available, but you'll have to look around. Much more fun vertical climbing than most 5.4s but too short as usual.


    Location 

    Route starts left of the large roof on the east face of the 2nd pinnacle, perhaps 20 feet left from Slot. Walk off from the West Bench, rap from the West Bench eye bolt back into the Amphitheater or continue to the summit of the 2nd pinnacle as another pitch (Upper East Face 5.7).


    Protection 

    Protection is available but the rock is suspect in many places. Small cams place well in pods to sew it up. New leaders should evaluate rock quality carefully. No fixed anchor at the top but you can traverse right to the West Bench eyebolt for fixed pro. Topout is thin on gear without being creative.



    Comments on The Inset Add Comment
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    By ktm200
    Oct 1, 2011

    Prospective from a new trad leader :)-> Being a moderate sport climber and brand new to trad, this was only be my 5th trad lead, it seemed the protection is more than suspect for someone at my level.

    I would find one good placement, then double up two not so great placements. I spent a lot of time looking around for better areas to place protection but could not find them.

    Maybe my bad ones were better than I thought, but I really couldn't find anything else better, I spent an hour climbing a 5.4 looking around for better pro.

    Also, the 5.4 seemed harder than most 5.4s, but maybe that was because I was having problems finding good pro.

    Anyway, my other 4 trad leads have been 5.6s with bomber protection to place and no problems.

    My opinion and a small warning to the inexperienced like me.

    By Ben Burnett
    From: Colorado
    Sep 2, 2012
    rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a R

    The "Description" above makes little sense, but the "Location" is correct. The inset refers to the panel of rock that is set back into the wall somewhat - bounded by dihedrals and a roof. The inset is easiest if you start on the right side, but exciting moves can be found by starting in the middle or left side of it. Pass the roof on the right and either continue up and right to the Slot or move left to a small roof and right-facing dihedrals.