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North Face / North End
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Anaconda T,S 
Inferno, The 
Ryan's Inferno S 
Triple Exposure T,S 

The Inferno 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C3

   
Type:  Aid, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C3 [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,148
Submitted By: Dan Russell on Sep 18, 2001

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Dan Russell on the first pitch of The Inferno.
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  • Description 

    The first pitch is the crux. Climb a short ramp to a bolt (sometimes the hanger is missing, if it is, use a wire). Using hand-placed pins or tricams, ascend to a very short 5.8 lieback to another bolt. From here follow incipient cracks up on cams and tricams to a drilled pin, an old bolt, and the anchor directly under a small roof. For the second pitch, traverse left on rivets, then up on small nuts to another anchor. For the third pitch, follow old bolts/drilled pins up and slightly left to join Triple Exposure just before the summit notch. Two double-rope rappels to the ground.


    Protection 

    quickdraws, small nuts/wires for rivets, small tricams for pin scars, small to medium cams, pins come in handy, either lost arrows or medium to large angles TO BE HAND-PLACED. DON'T BRING A HAMMER!



    Photos of The Inferno Slideshow Add Photo
    BETA PHOTO
    The Inferno.
    The Inferno.
    Ryan Sayers working the 1st pitch free
    Ryan Sayers working the 1st pitch free
    Brian Shelton starting up P1 on aid
    Brian Shelton starting up P1 on aid
    Dan Russell on P1
    Dan Russell on P1
    zac finding out the top is hard too!
    zac finding out the top is hard too!
    Comments on The Inferno Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Dan Russell
    Dec 2, 2002

    During the summer of 2002 a couple of us spent several days trying to free the first pitch of the Inferno. All the moves go free, offerring some very dynamic and powerful climbing, some of the best moves in the Garden. It has also cleaned up surprisingly well and sports mostly very solid holds once on the route.

    The free variation goes left at the start, then straight up to join the aid line, so it will probably need a lead bolt near the beginning to be led. The crux is a dyno right near the start, probably about V6 or V7. Then it's a super fun .12a to the anchor from there. As of right now, we do the first 3 moves as aid, on 2 bolts and a hand-placed pin, then redpoint the rest of the pitch.

    It will be super-classic when it goes, and the hardest free route in the Garden for sure.

    By Dan Russell
    Dec 2, 2002

    Also, the C3 rating that I gave the whole route is probably not accurate. That's what I had heard it as, so that's what I gave it when I submitted it to the database, but it's not harder than C2. The upper pitch is just a ladder of bad bolts and lots of old 1/4" studs. At one point, there's like 6 or 8 of them in a row, above a dubious pin. So the C3 was because of the fall potential, but the route is actually very easy. C2F is probably more accurate. Whatever it is, it's fun to yard on all those horrible looking studs. And since most of the route overhangs so much, you don't have to worry about the fall at all. Great exposure for sure.

    By jesse mascarenas
    Oct 25, 2008

    Open project?

    By Stewart M. Green
    Oct 26, 2008

    Yep. It's an open project. It still hasn't been redpointed....

    By Nathanael Hansen
    From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
    Feb 6, 2009

    I finally added it. Because it's definitely separate from The Inferno (the aid climb), it's now listed as Ryan's Inferno.
    Jesse, it'd be cool to have your pictures moved over too.
    Ryan's Inferno still needs some repeats!
    Thanks