Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Index

Select Route:
Index by FA Route 

The Index 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 13,420'
Page Views: 1,880
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Peter Blank on Aug 12, 2011
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area Add Route | Add Photo | Add Comment | Add Event
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!
Sat Sun Mon Tue Wed
Snow
34° | 21°
Partly Cloudy
40° | 21°
Partly Cloudy
43° | 25°
Partly Cloudy
43° | 21°
Snow Showers
33° | 11°

Description 

The Index is a block topped tower just west of Animas Mountain (13,786) deep in the Weminuche Wilderness. It may well be the most difficult summit in Colorado named by the USGS. It was first ascended in 1934 by Mel Griffiths, H.L. McClintock, and Frank McClintock. The rock of the actual tower is superb for San Juan standards though it is quite a soft scree slog approach. Extra points if you avoid smashing any wildflowers along the way. You should almost assuredly have complete isolation from the rest of humanity on this peak. The hardest part of the climb may be finding the Ruby Creek trail and then the correct access gully. Once you harness up, the real crux is over.


Getting There 

Approach via the Ruby Lake trail. From Needleton, head upstream away from everyone else going to Chicago Basin. You'll pass through one meadow after 1/3 mile or so and enter another after an additional 1/3 mile. Looking around you may see several cut logs turned on end as chairs around a fire pit. You may also notice that the trail pretty much disappears. Head to the east side of the clearing and look for the Ruby trail. Look around hard if you don't find it at first. You want to make sure you find it. It's there. It's about 2-3 hours on a steep trail to the lake and another hour to the upper basin. The Index is easy to spot from the lake but much less obvious from higher up. From the upper basin, Animas Mountain is a large mess of blocks and towers to the north. Look for the largest gap between two rocky massifs with a small, triangular tower between creating something of a W shape. Do not head into this gully. Instead tend more west and climb into the next gully to climber's left. There is a large chockstone guarding the top of the gully that can either be tackled directly or easily (5.0) to the right. Once out of the gully, look uphill and the Index is the tallest of the three towers 200 feet above you. Head to the base of the shortest (left most) tower looking for a less than vertical hand crack and belay from there.


1 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Index
Base of Index tower complex.  Notice ledge with #3 hand crack accessing upper sections.

Index by FA Route 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : The Index
From the bottom of the tower, climb 7 feet to a ledge that accesses a less than vertical handcrack (5.5, 15 feet, #3 Camalot). Belay off boulders just above the crack. Hop 50 feet around the base of the first tower and either rappel or downclimb (5.2, 30 feet) a gully to the east between towers 1 and 2. Set up a belay with medium stoppers. Climb easy fingers to hands to blocks to top of second tower (5.6, 60 feet) and belay off a slung boulder with a relic piton. Rappel to saddle betw...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on The Index Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -