The Incredible Butt Crack 5.12-
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12- [details] |
| FA: | Mason Earle, Nicolas Favresse |
| Submitted By: | m-earle on Oct 28, 2008 |
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Sean Villanueva in the business end of the I.B.C
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Description This unique pitch probably belongs in Vedauwoo, but makes a nice escape from all the boring splitters you usually find in the Creek. Ascend a varied corner up into the alcove below the massive flared roof, then squirm and contort your way around the lip and up to the anchor. The combination of bizzare movement, good gear and an awesome feature make this a must do for all visiting Jedi (and aspiring) offwidth climbers!
Location From the Catmandu/ Cat touch this end of the cliff, walk about 5 minutes right on a faint trail. There is a plaque, but this route is very hard to miss.
Protection 2 #6 camalots 1 #4 camalot(to protect the first move off the deck) 1 #2 1 #1 2-3 finger sized
Post burn, with nose gobie
| Andreas on a TR recon, spring '09
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| Comments on The Incredible Butt Crack |
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By TomKingsbury May 30, 2009
| Super cool feature!!! i found it harder than the 'brother', there's gotta be more eh? i also used invert beta rather than the crazy squeeze you boys were using, not sure what works better though.... patrick |
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