The Incinerator 

Steep!

Best route at Holcomb? Certainly the best I've done. Athletic and bouldery on a gorgeous lichen tinged wall with somewhat sustained and difficult movement up to/through the crux. A welcome change from the slabby edge surfing more typical of the area. Not overly tricky, this makes a good onsight candidate (I failed and had to go back another day for the send).

I recently stepped up to this route & I found the only way for me was slightly to the right of the arete. I don't actually hold any of the chalked up holds on the arete or the two horizontals left and high on the arete. I never get more than an arm span to the right of the bolt line. Also, the way I do this route makes placing and clipping all the draws easy. I am probably doing an easier variation. Seems like 11c? Am I doing it wrong? How is everyone else doing it? What is the current beta?

Thanks in advance & sorry if this is in the wrong place.


Just looked at the video below. Is that the "Full rating beta?" or is this the easier way? No offense to anybody intended. This is the way I do the route except no dyno. Thanks.

It sounds like you're going straight up from the third bolt instead of traversing the little roof left and throwing up to the holds on the other side of the arete. Perhaps it's a little contrived, but it's a 30 foot "route" that is basically a boulder problem with a bit of fluff at the start and end. Going straight up would pretty much bypass the bulk of the route.

Assorted vids for those who want beta; two different approaches to the crux in these. Burly climb, you don't even realize how steep it is until you're standing underneath it about to start or belay.

Full ascent: Full ascent on Vimeo

Cant really appreciate how steep this is until you stand under it. Climb the 5.9 way left and traverse right at the top to get to the anchors so you can hang the draws. Trust me youll want the draws hung on this one for the red point. Dyno crux!