|Hemingway Buttress (East Face Center)
The Importance of Being Ernest
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Darryl Nakahira & Randy Vogel, 1982|
|Page Views: ||1,439|
|Submitted By: ||Murf on Jan 1, 2002|
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Double up the C3s in the roof and go for it. Pic b...
Pull the initial crack to the first roof. Pull up on the positive holds, and move up the thin crack. Be alert for gear placements, which are sparse but available. A fall above this roof with bad/no gear could have serious consequences on the slab below.
The second roof is the surprise of the route, discard your expectations before you get there. Interesting moves and solid gear will see you to the top.
This route is serious for the grade, but decent gear is available. The copperheads are no longer there. I took HB and BD brass and used both, but either should suffice.
Small cams and brass required, bolts on top, single rope rap down.
|Photos of The Importance of Being Ernest Slideshow
The burly crack start. Pic by Kris Solem.
The first crux of the climb. Pic by Kris Solem.
The mental crux is pulling the roof and busting s...
|Comments on The Importance of Being Ernest
May 2, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R
Lead this route for the second time (23 years later) and found it to be excellent climbing and a bit scary. 3+ of 5 stars. The moves above the first roof are heady and a fall would be most unpleasant. Above, as Murf said, small brass nuts are essential, and save a 1 to 1.25" cam for the final roof (bomber placement here). Route takes a wide variety of gear from tiny nuts to 2 inch cams.
|By Crack Addict|
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 18, 2005
Wanted to lead this one after Prepackaged but decided to TR it instead after rapping the route. Protection opportunities above the roof were scary. Aside from that it is an awesome climb and was fun to do on TR.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Nov 6, 2006
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R
Even as a TR, this is one awesome route! Thought provoking face and crack climbing. Do it.
|By Dan Hickstein|
Feb 24, 2007
I didn't use any brass nuts on this climb. The first roof protects well with a bomber medium stopper. A blue-alien size is really nice for the second roof. Really fun moves!
|By Michael Ybarra|
From: on the road
Apr 6, 2009
A good selection of thin nuts is what you want on this climb.
|By darryl banks|
Mar 15, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13
fell....hung....hung again, and fell once more....scary yet fun climb and so cool. ill get it clean next time..
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 21, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13
I found with modern small cams and brass that this is not R rated. Great gear but thoughtful to place. Don't forget to exit right.
|By Mike Fogarty|
From: La Quinta, CA
May 11, 2012
I will remember this lead climb with CLOG COGS, it was my first roof pull 1983 I was 19 years young, nice climb!
Oct 28, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13
Engaging route, quality moves. I didn't have the correct micro cams so the few good ones I had, hogged up the holds. For that reason, it would be easier on top rope. On lead, it felt like 10d.