Login with Facebook
Garden Party Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Can't Please Everyone S 
Dirty Love T,TR 
Illusionist, The S 
Right Crack T,TR 
Topiary S 

The Illusionist 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 66'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bob D & Greg Hand
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 875
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jul 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Bob D beginning the crux of The Illusionist on the...

Seasonal Raptor Closure - Lifted MORE INFO >>>


The crux is getting over the roof and keeping it together for the next 3-4 clips. Great route...Maybe the best in the Sherwood Forest area.


Start left of Topiary up a short corner leading to the roof.


Eight clips and green camalot for below the roof. Lower from a two bolt chain anchor.

Photos of The Illusionist Slideshow Add Photo
Is this an illusion or the real thing?
Is this an illusion or the real thing?

Comments on The Illusionist Add Comment
Show which comments
By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Jul 21, 2008

Excellent climbing. For what it's worth, even I was able to TR this route without falling. That may have been an illusion. Then, later in the day, I shot 1 under par at West Woods golf course from the tips. Anybody for golf?
By Mark E Dixon
From: Sprezzatura, Someday
Jun 18, 2012

OK, but far from the best at Sherwood, IMHO.
By slim
Jul 14, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Interesting route. My first attempt it felt really, really hard, but I was paying too much attention to the 2nd bolt above the roof and trying to use it as a clue on which way to go over the roof. Big mistake. I was trying to figure out what was going on, as Bob/Greg's routes aren't generally stiff for the grade. I was pretty baffled. second time, just following the climbing, went much easier. If it feels really hard, take a step back and try something different - you are likely in left field....

The crack/jug under Bob's foot in the photo is caked in some sort of shit and pretty much unusable (for a hold and for gear as well). You can get a pretty good 0.75 Camalot out right though. The climbing above and below the roof was pretty good. Technical, delicate, and fun.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!