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 ADVANCED
Garden Party Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Can't Please Everyone S 
Dirty Love T,TR 
Illusionist, The S 
Right Crack T,TR 
Topiary S 

The Illusionist 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 66'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bob D & Greg Hand
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 756
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jul 21, 2008

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Bob D beginning the crux of The Illusionist on the...
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Description 

The crux is getting over the roof and keeping it together for the next 3-4 clips. Great route...Maybe the best in the Sherwood Forest area.


Location 

Start left of Topiary up a short corner leading to the roof.


Protection 

Eight clips and green camalot for below the roof. Lower from a two bolt chain anchor.



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Is this an illusion or the real thing?
Is this an illusion or the real thing?
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By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Jul 21, 2008

Excellent climbing. For what it's worth, even I was able to TR this route without falling. That may have been an illusion. Then, later in the day, I shot 1 under par at West Woods golf course from the tips. Anybody for golf?

By Mark E Dixon
From: Sprezzatura, Someday
Jun 18, 2012

OK, but far from the best at Sherwood, IMHO.

By slim
Administrator
Jul 14, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Interesting route. My first attempt it felt really, really hard, but I was paying too much attention to the 2nd bolt above the roof and trying to use it as a clue on which way to go over the roof. Big mistake. I was trying to figure out what was going on, as Bob/Greg's routes aren't generally stiff for the grade. I was pretty baffled. second time, just following the climbing, went much easier. If it feels really hard, take a step back and try something different - you are likely in left field....

The crack/jug under Bob's foot in the photo is caked in some sort of shit and pretty much unusable (for a hold and for gear as well). You can get a pretty good 0.75 Camalot out right though. The climbing above and below the roof was pretty good. Technical, delicate, and fun.