Beautiful area in the chessmen. This area has seen more traffic than some other areas in the Chessmen. In the immediate area are Mungy Horse, Seahorse, and Long Division and Me So Harney.
I believe we were the first to climb this rock last year via Long Division, the route just left of the obvious prow. If you have climbed this rock in the center of the gully before we did, please let me know the name of it. It is in Busse and Burr's guide as Me So Harney (same name as the project route on the rock) although our route went in before that, I think.
After crossing the creek to enter the Chessmen, head through a pine filled gully. You will know you are in the right area when you see the large prow on the rock that divides a large gully into two smaller ones.
This is the nice looking crack just left of the prow. Climb the short face with a pin to get into the crack, eventually gaining a large ledge, then step left on exposed face holds to a second fixed pin. Continue upward.The crux of this route is getting into the crack off the ground and clipping the pin. Last I was there just a few days ago, the pin was looking a little wiggly.There is a secondary crux when attempting to squeeze into the almost offwidth chimney thing near the top of the crack....[more]Browse More Classics in SD