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North facing cliff high on the flanks of Mummy Mountain (just past Charleston, part of the same ridge system). Good quality limestone with some not-worth-the-hike routes, some fun, ok routes, and some REALLY good ones. Showpiece routes include Satellite 12b and Cool Places 12a. Routes tend to be mostly vertical; no cave action here, although at ten thousand feet, even slabby feels pretty steep! Always bring a jacket to this cliff-I've had snowball fights in June with friends in between climbs. Perfect for solitude and hot weather.
From Vegas it's a 45 minute drive, then a 1hr hike-this area takes commitment to get to-you could be climbing in St. George by the time you got (panting) to the base of your route here and caught your breath. Take 95 N to 157 toward Mt. Charleston. Break off right at the first big ridge onto Rt. 158 very near to where you'll see the church on your left (same approach road to Robber's Roost). Set your odometer here. Pass the Roost, continue past the pay campgrounds as well, looking closely as you pass the 5 mile marker on your odometer for a gravelly road going uphill (sometimes) marked with a sign 'Archery Range'. There are a million ways to get temporarily lost, and a million places to park (and camp, though fires are illegal here most of the year and fines are steep!), but you are generally bearing right and up hill. There is a nice flat spot with quite a few trees (and a bunch of trash-popular camp site) where it is best to park if you're driving a compact; if you're in a truck, you can head further up the hill to a locked BLM gate; DO NOT BLOCK THIS! Park at one of the small pulloffs beneath the gate, making sure to damage vegetation as little as possible, and not blocking anyone's way up the road. Hike up past the gate as the road gets way steep and the altitude starts reminding you of your extra pounds. You will pass a double storage unit/ghetto house simulation, a couple of real houses, an Airstream trailer or two, and then the road ends. You've been hiking roughly 25 minutes at this point assuming you parked just under the BLM gate. After spotting a collapsed picnic table and a toppled grill in a clearing, you will find a faintish trail heading up the mountain ridge, staying mostly to climber's left, with many switchbacks, and when you reach the cliff, you will move right, avoiding at all costs the loose, rocky gully that is the most direct way up to the routes. Total approach time should be about an hour on foot; allow yourself more if it's your first time up and/or you're not good with altitude.
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Featured Route For The Ice House
Fun route up a beautiful powder blue corner. Good footwork and crack climbing experience count for a lot on the smooth, powdery, diamond-hard limestone jams. Fun face climbing as you exit the corner and head for the chains. ...[more] Browse More Classics in NV
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