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12c for a day S 
Breaking the Law S 
Business Before Pleasure S 
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Cold Beer in the River S 
Domestic Bliss S 
Gainfully Unemployed S 
Hull Yeah S 
Hurt Locker, The S 
Kate Moss S 
Lockjaw S 
Luna Park S 
Meridian S 
Paradigm Shift S 
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Van Halem S 

The Hurt Locker 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Patrick O'Donnell
Page Views: 747
Submitted By: Drewsky on Jul 4, 2010

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The first (from left to right as you look at the crag) of a 'Trifecta' of long (40m) routes at Newhalem. This is an athletic climb up a steep chimney feature. It has interesting blocky climbing that is disturbingly hollow in places, but seems relatively sound. A crux lies in wait somewhere near the end. Tread lightly on the giant fin before the crux. The only drawback is that it's fairly easy and slightly more intuitive to climb to the right onto Meridian at the top, thus bypassing the hardest crux moves. Done in this fashion the grade probably drops by a letter or two.


Just left of where the trail meets the crag, a line of bolts divides into two lines around a large, ominous block. The left is the start of a three pitch route, "Cold Beer in the River", while the right ("Domestic Bliss, .11a") climbs straight up the scary block and trends right. The Hurt Locker continues above this right variation. 80m rope for full descent, but with some annoyance a 70m can be used to lower to the "Domestic Bliss" anchors.


Bolts. Top part is mostly fixed, but you will need 2 quickdraws and, preferably, one shoulder length sling for it. The bottom part has about 12 bolts, some of which are strangely located. Slings useful on the bottom part as well. Fixed anchor/lowering station on top.

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By kimmo
Jul 16, 2013
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

the top was a little strange. for me the natural tendency was to go a bit right at the top, which put me into Meridian. This method probably avoided the crux, which is why it felt easier than what people seem to be calling it.
By Drewsky
Feb 7, 2014

This is true. It's slighty contrived to do the 'direct' ending because I seem to remember that it's possible climb over to the rest on Meridian at the large hold before the end. I think it's fair to just average the grade down based on how someone would climb it via the most intuitive line.
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