The Hurt Locker
|567 page views|
The first (from left to right as you look at the crag) of a 'Trifecta' of long (40m!) routes at Newhalem. An athletic climb up a steep chimney feature. Interesting blocky climbing that is disturbingly hollow in places, but seems relatively sound. A crux lies in wait somewhere near the end. Tread lightly on the giant fin before the crux.
Just left of where the trail meets the crag, a line of bolts divides into two lines around a large, ominous block. The left is the start of a three pitch route, "Cold Beer in the River", while the right ("Domestic Bliss, .11a") climbs straight up the scary block and trends right. The Hurt Locker continues above this right variation. 80m rope for full descent, but with some annoyance a 70m can be used to lower to the "Domestic Bliss" anchors.
Bolts. Top part is mostly fixed, but you will need 2 quickdraws and, preferably, one shoulder length sling for it. The bottom part has about 12 bolts, some of which are strangely located. Slings useful on the bottom part as well. Fixed anchor/lowering station on top.
|Comments on The Hurt Locker
Jul 16, 2013
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX E6 6b
the top was a little strange. for me the natural tendency was to go a bit right at the top, which put me into Meridian. This method probably avoided the crux, which is why it felt easier than what people seem to be calling it.