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 ADVANCED
Devil's Den Bouldering
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A Moment Of Light 
Advantageous 
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Arete To Arete 
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Bad Apple, The 
Big Ocean, The 
Doing The Dew 
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Hug, The 
Individual Medley 
Leave It to Beaver 
Numb Thumb 
Pretty Bloc Swag 
Red 
Red Devil 
Red Right Hand aka Spitting Blood 
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Throng 
Tisk, Tisk 
Tradster 
Universal Socket (aka The Pocket Problem) 
Up in Smoke 

The Hug 

Hueco: V5+ Font: 6C+

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 667
Submitted By: Christian Prellwitz on Oct 20, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: This photo shows the starting holds of the stand (...

Description 

This modest looking climb is actually quite good, with powerful compression moves and a very fun dyno.

Start standing with your right hand on a sloper sidepull at 5-6 feet and your left hand on a high angled sidepull crimp at around 7 feet. Pull off the ground and make a long reach to get your right hand to a good hold on the right arete. Sort out some feet and dyno for the lip. Stick the swing and finish out with a mantle that is a bit more difficult than it first appears.

This climb is somewhat morpho since the span between the two aretes is fairly big. It might feel easy for tall folks. It might be impossible for those on the shorter side to make the span.

There is the possibility for this to be done from a sit start, using a small right crimp and a weird sidepull/pinch for the left. This feels signficantly harder. Perhaps v9ish?


Location 

This climb is located on a boulder just uphill from 'Up In Smoke'. It is located to the right of 'Tradster' and 'Last But Not Least'.

Protection 

A couple of pads would be ideal


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 17, 2014
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 20, 2013

Given the obviousness of the line, I'm sure this problem has been climbed in the past. A few friends of mine scrubbed this up recently and we thought it would be a worthwhile addition to the site. If anyone has any info about the line that they would like to share, feel free!

I believe 'Last But Not Least' (described in the NEB guidebook) actually climbs the wall to left of this, though to be honest I don't really understand where that line is supposed to start or end.

The sit start would be a cool addition.
By Tony Pepperoni
Oct 21, 2013

I believe I did the sit on Saturday. Felt around v8ish. But I'm 6 feet tall so that may have some effect. Anyway it is a very fun climb and worth the effort.
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Nov 9, 2013
rating: V5 6C

This line is quite fun! If anyone is wondering, yes, it's possible to skip the hug and dyno straight to the lip. The sit certainly felt V8/9.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 9, 2013

Sweet! Glad you enjoyed it. I thought I might have seen you out there today but I don't know exactly what you look like. It would have been good to actually meet! (That will have to wait for another time because I'm flying back to Colorado tomorrow.)

Try 'Red Right Hand'!
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Nov 12, 2013
rating: V6 7A

I really enjoyed this route. Very good movement and not over until you top it out. A very worthy addition, thanks for scrubbing it up and letting us all know it is out there!
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 16, 2013

No worries, Matt. Glad you enjoyed it!

Footage of this problem begins at 2:36

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Nov 20, 2013
rating: V5 6C

another fun addition. felt a little soft for a 6 but still was fantastic and absolutely worth the trip out.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 21, 2013

Mike--

I could easily see it being 5-ish. Given that wingspan plays a large role in this problem, I didn't want to sandbag the shorties out there.

A shorter friend of mine (who climbs v10) had to grind his face against the rock just to be able to make the move out to the arete.

I haven't tried Bryce's dyno from the starting holds (and won't get to for quite a while) so perhaps that will eliminate the wingspan dependence.

Either way, I'm always happy when people share their opinions/thoughts. That is the best way to get a consensus! Glad you enjoyed it.
By andyelliott
Apr 28, 2014

definitely easier for the taller people. Im 6'4" and it felt pretty easy to me. it was my first v6 and i did it with the right starting hold and the right jug soaking wet. really fun though!
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Apr 29, 2014

Andy- 6'4"??? That's cheating! :)

I changed the grade to v5+ since that's the current consensus. I'll be happy to update as the grade becomes more solidified. I'm not that attached to the grade either way. I'm more psyched that people are really enjoying it.
By Ian McAfee
From: Nashua, NH
Aug 10, 2014
rating: V6 7A

I love lines like this, simple and dynamic. Not to be missed.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 17, 2014

Did it via the the dyno/no hug version today. I might like that way better! Super fun move to the lip. The sit still feels really hard to me...