The Hueco Route
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BETA PHOTO: Hueco Route
Start on the lower left, on holds as low as you dare use (slopier closer to the bottom), and climb up and right to the stranded jug pockets in the middle of the face.
Then do the flashy "Fred Nicole finish" by kicking the boulder behind. You don't have to jump onto it or anything, just kick your foot over and touch it, and you're done.
There is a variant (or the complete line, if you like) that starts on this problem and finishes straight up from the stranded huecos (Cloaca, v11).
In the first room of the two hidden rooms across from The Peephole.
A pad and spotter.
Jul 18, 2016
If you're skinny enough, climbing into the first large hueco and squeezing through the improbable-looking gap to emerge headfirst out of the rock to grab the finish holds is quite possibly the most hilarious and fun climb I have ever done