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The Hourglass

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Hourglass, Right, The T 

The Hourglass  


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Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bryan G on Jan 15, 2012
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Description 

The Hourglass is the obvious, 350 ft tall, hourglass shaped exfoliation slab situated at the base of the wall to the right of the Ribbon Falls Amphitheater. The left side goes as a scary and committing 11a while the right side is a very stout 10a offwidth. I also spied some fixed gear out on the face towards the center of the pinnacle, but I don't know if a center route has been completed or not.

Getting There 

It's a bit of a hike, but the Hourglass is worth it. Park at the woodyard on the right side of North Side Drive a bit past El Cap Meadow. Leave the dirt road as you would for Gold Wall and follow cairns and faint climbers trails through the forest along the west bank of Ribbon Creek. At some point you will need to cross the creek and continue through the forest and up a final steep section of loose dirt to reach the base.

It's easy to lose sight of the Hourglass on the approach, but there is a long, arching roof several hundred feet higher up on the wall that you can usually see through the trees. Use this arching roof to orient yourself, as the Hourglass is directly below it.

If you do this climb when Ribbon Creek is not running the approach will be significantly easier. You can follow the Ribbon Creek drainage for most of the approach before cutting right up the hillside just before you reach the base of the cliff.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.9 miles from here

1 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Hourglass
right side

The Hourglass, Right 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : The Hourglass
The right side of the Hourglass features 3 quality pitches and spectacular views of the West Face of El Cap. Except for a 20 ft section of burly offwidth, most of the climb is pretty moderate and features lots of fun hand-jamming and mellow chimney climbing.Pitch 1: Start in a clearing amidst a bunch of manzanitas. Do a boulder problem up the face to reach some ledges and then climb the right facing corner. There are a couple 5.9 bulges that are a bit awkward but mostly secure thanks to good han...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

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By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Jan 15, 2012
Lots of great history, photos, and discussion in these links

Photos of The Hourglass Left

40 Years Ago Peter Haan: Salathe Solo & The Hourglass

Recollections of the First Free Ascent of The Left Side of the Hourglass

Bouted on Hourglass, Right Side Trip Report