The Hourglass  5.11a

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  Sam Magro and Pat Kingsbury September 2008 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Trevor Bowman on Oct 9, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Dave Elder enters the pod low on the Hourglass.

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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>> 07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route. Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

An excellent anomaly that Pat aptly characterized as, "the average man's Animal Cracker Land". Unlike the typical Tower corner, this one follows an elegant wavy fracture crack up a vague prow. It's easily identified by the large lower pod, reminiscent of a Yosemite feature. The crack opens and closes throughout, providing big moves between sinker locks. Start on the lower crack of Dump Watt, cut right into the big pod, exit this and stem a bit up the corner to the right (Marriage Was my Worst Mistake), before being forced to commit to the fracture crack entirely for some cruxy pulls, and exit left on faceholds into the final 20' of Dump Watt to beefy, brand-new anchors. Thought-provoking, sustained, and surprisingly steep--this is a very unique pitch for the Tower with a distinct character!

Location 

The wavy fracture crack between Dump Watt and Marriage Was My Worst Mistake. Two cracks right of the direct start to Belle Fourche.

Protection 

Double set of stoppers and cams through #3 camalot. One C4 #4 camalot. A few long runners for the lower section.