The Hotness 5.11 PG13
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | Paul Pomeroy & Chris Taylor, (pitch 1 with Mike Pont) |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | CHRIS.T on Aug 22, 2011 |
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Paul lowering back to the '5.10 ledge' after climb...
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Description Approach by climbing pitch 1 of 'The Big Steep'.
Pitch 1: Climb straight up from the belay and follow 5 bolts on the steep wall above. Navigate through the initial bulge, then angle right on thin and brilliant face climbing past the final bolt. The difficulty gradually decreases beyond the final bolt. Climb unprotected stone to reach the bolted belay atop pitch 2 of 'The Big Steep'. (5.11, 100 feet.) Heady!
Pitch 2: Follow 6 bolts up the beautiful orange headwall, left of the final pitch of 'The Golden Monkey'. Face climb on thin flakes for about 60 feet to large holds at the lip above the final bolt, then climb easy rock for 40 feet over somewhat loose ledges to the bolted anchor. (5.10+, 100 feet.) The anchor is located slightly left at the top. Directional protection can be placed above the final bolt for anyone toproping pitch 2. This will reduce the potential for a swing after unclipping the last bolt, and will reduce the chance for loose rock to be dislodged from above in the event of a toprope fall.
Descent: Rappel the route.
Location Approach by climbing the first pitch of 'The Big Steep'.
Pitch 1 starts from the first bolted belay atop pitch 1 of 'The Big Steep'.
Pitch 2 starts from the large belay ledge (the '5.10 ledge'), about ten feet left of the final pitch of 'The Big Steep'.
Protection Pitch 1 of 'The Big Steep': 11 bolts.
Pitch 1: 5 bolts.
Pitch 2: 6 bolts.
(Optional) - A handful of small to midsize cams, and stoppers.
Bolted anchors.
60 meter rope mandatory. TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE!
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2 of 'The Hotness' follows the line of bolts...
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