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Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
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The Hot Spur 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 470'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bob Culp and Stan Shepard, 1961
Page Views: 1,408
Submitted By: Kevin Currigan on Aug 1, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Chris Taylor on pitch 1 at crux (not really a chim...
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  • Description 

    If you can find it, you can climb it. This one is way up on Redgarden; keep hiking. If you make it to the 3rd class walkoff you've gone just a bit too far. Seriously, pass by Rewritten, Grand Course, and Sunstar (first pitch chimney is easy to spot). Just as the trail starts to switch back to the left (away from the wall) look back to the wall and find the best path to get there. This area is pretty steep and seems to be prone to erosion. From this point on, we constantly wondered if we were on route. I think we got close but corrections or clarifications are certainly invited. That said...we found the start of the route by locating what Rossiter describes as a large fallen block. The block angles against the rock and opens uphill with a small pine on top. It makes a nice spot to shoe up as the hillside is steep and loose. This spot is also in the shade of trees which is nice when it's 90.

    P1 - Just a bit uphill from there a crack diagonals up and to the left with a small pine just a few moves away. Climb straight up (awkward but easy) to gain a second crack and follow this a bit left then up. Supposedly, there is a chimney in the area but we never spotted one. The closest being a wedge-shaped corner. Just to the left a 12'-15' vertical crack provided a couple fun (5.7?) moves up to a ledge and the belay. It is probably 100' of 5.5-5.6 overall.

    P2 - This pitch started with another short vertical section followed by 3rd/4th class for another 150' up a loose and rocky ramp. This gully is so loose it is impossible not to launch a rock or two. Be certain to position your belay with this in mind. In addition, try setting some occasional high pro to keep the rope up. As you reach the top of the gully the rock firms up and rises in a series of aretes. Set the belay as soon as the rock will take it.

    P3 - The last pitch is described by Rossiter as "a slightly overhanging, left facing corner". Pick your way to the top. Although the rock is still questionable, there are some interesting lines. We chose a broken crack up a less than vertical face. The rock got bad and my leader dropped into the gully to finish the lead (5.5 into 4th). Seconding, I cleaned the first half then climbed back down and onto the arete-vaguely reminiscent of Icarus/Yellow Spur.


    Standard rack.

    Photos of The Hot Spur Slideshow Add Photo
    The start of Hot Spur.  Climb a left-angling crack to a little pine tree. Continue up another short crack, then angle back right to a chimney/slot with a hand crack in the back.
    BETA PHOTO: The start of Hot Spur. Climb a left-angling crack...
    The upper pitches of Hot Spur.  Climb straight up short steep corners to a a series of ledges with trees. <br /> <br />Climb through a broken area, then move up and right on loose ramp toward a big pine tree near the top of Northumberland Crack. <br /> <br />Just left of the tree climb a steep juggy wall to the top. <br /> <br />It's also possible to climb to the top farther to the left; this is mostly fourth class and loose.
    BETA PHOTO: The upper pitches of Hot Spur. Climb straight up ...
    Hot Spur.  Start by a short left-angling crack with a little pine tree about 20' up.  Head up to a prominent chimney/slot with a hand crack in the corner.  Climb the slot and some short steep corners.  Find a belay at a tree on some broken ledges. <br /> <br />Head up and angle right on a loose ramp toward a big pine tree at the top of Northumberland Crack. <br /> <br />Climb a steep juggy headwall and corner to the top. This last pitch is shared with Northumberland Crack. <br /> <br />It's possible to continue up farther to the left, but the climbing is fourth class and loose.
    BETA PHOTO: Hot Spur. Start by a short left-angling crack wit...
    On the last pitch which is the best of the route.
    On the last pitch which is the best of the route.
    Comments on The Hot Spur Add Comment
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    By Benten
    From: Denver
    Oct 17, 2010
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

    Decent climb, there is finger crack that is optional but great on the first pitch.

    By Ben Burnett
    From: Colorado
    Feb 17, 2013
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

    Good route with lots of variations. The slanting crack to a pine tree is pretty easy to spot, but from there, you can choose a variety of features. We climbed straight up from the pine on a series of finger cracks winding through trees near the top to a big ledge - all 5th class. To the right of the 4th class gully, a left-facing dihedral with an old pin goes up to a roof. Escape right and head up to another bulge near a thin flake. Easy run-out terrain leads to a rubble ledge. I went up the left wall using a long right-slanting crack to a small summit tower. This finish was good, but the correct finish [up and right of the rubble ledge] is probably better.

    The route is very hard to spot in its entirety from the trail. Caution: Ron's yellow dot lines don't line up; I think one of lines follows Maverick to the rubble ledge.