The Hot Spur
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Chris Taylor on pitch 1 at crux (not really a chim...
If you can find it, you can climb it. This one is way up on Redgarden; keep hiking. If you make it to the 3rd class walkoff you've gone just a bit too far. Seriously, pass by Rewritten
, Grand Course
, and Sunstar
(first pitch chimney is easy to spot). Just as the trail starts to switch back to the left (away from the wall) look back to the wall and find the best path to get there. This area is pretty steep and seems to be prone to erosion. From this point on, we constantly wondered if we were on route. I think we got close but corrections or clarifications are certainly invited. That said...we found the start of the route by locating what Rossiter describes as a large fallen block. The block angles against the rock and opens uphill with a small pine on top. It makes a nice spot to shoe up as the hillside is steep and loose. This spot is also in the shade of trees which is nice when it's 90.
P1 - Just a bit uphill from there a crack diagonals up and to the left with a small pine just a few moves away. Climb straight up (awkward but easy) to gain a second crack and follow this a bit left then up. Supposedly, there is a chimney in the area but we never spotted one. The closest being a wedge-shaped corner. Just to the left a 12'-15' vertical crack provided a couple fun (5.7?) moves up to a ledge and the belay. It is probably 100' of 5.5-5.6 overall.
P2 - This pitch started with another short vertical section followed by 3rd/4th class for another 150' up a loose and rocky ramp. This gully is so loose it is impossible not to launch a rock or two. Be certain to position your belay with this in mind. In addition, try setting some occasional high pro to keep the rope up. As you reach the top of the gully the rock firms up and rises in a series of aretes. Set the belay as soon as the rock will take it.
P3 - The last pitch is described by Rossiter as "a slightly overhanging, left facing corner". Pick your way to the top. Although the rock is still questionable, there are some interesting lines. We chose a broken crack up a less than vertical face. The rock got bad and my leader dropped into the gully to finish the lead (5.5 into 4th). Seconding, I cleaned the first half then climbed back down and onto the arete-vaguely reminiscent of Icarus
BETA PHOTO: The start of Hot Spur. Climb a left-angling crack...
BETA PHOTO: The upper pitches of Hot Spur. Climb straight up ...
BETA PHOTO: Hot Spur. Start by a short left-angling crack wit...
On the last pitch which is the best of the route.
Oct 17, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Decent climb, there is finger crack that is optional but great on the first pitch.
By Ben Burnett
Feb 17, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good route with lots of variations. The slanting crack to a pine tree is pretty easy to spot, but from there, you can choose a variety of features. We climbed straight up from the pine on a series of finger cracks winding through trees near the top to a big ledge - all 5th class. To the right of the 4th class gully, a left-facing dihedral with an old pin goes up to a roof. Escape right and head up to another bulge near a thin flake. Easy run-out terrain leads to a rubble ledge. I went up the left wall using a long right-slanting crack to a small summit tower. This finish was good, but the correct finish [up and right of the rubble ledge] is probably better.
The route is very hard to spot in its entirety from the trail. Caution: Ron's yellow dot lines don't line up; I think one of lines follows Maverick to the rubble ledge.