Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Lost Angel
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.9 Crack 
AAArete 
Archangel 
Autumn 
Awakenings 
Be Here Now 
Boy's World 
Caterer, The 
China Doll 
China Doll (P1-2, free) 
Crazy Wisdom 
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) 
Disneyland 
Divination 
Divination Direct 
Drop Zone 
Dynamometer 
Dyno ArÍte 
Earth Voyage 
Freedom 
Fright Grooves 
Host, The 
Hunky Monkey 
Interzone 
Jungle Blues From Jupiter 
Killing in the Name 
Knowoneness 
Life on Mars 
Long Dong Dihedral 
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish 
Naked Lunch 
Night Grooves 
Podophobia 
Primal Cinema 
Rage Against The Machine 
Raise the Titanic 
Rock Odyssey 
Rush 
Shape Shifters 
Shunyata 
Signs of Life 
Spiders From Mars 
Standard Route 
Strange Cargo 
Take the Power Back 
Technical Remote Viewing 
Time Traveler 
Vaino Step, The 
Variation to Hunky Monkey 
Weenie Roast 
Wide Crack 
Zentropa 

The Host 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas & Moe Hershoff, 2003
Page Views: 566
Submitted By: Bruce Pech on Sep 2, 2005
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: The Host

Description 

Begin about 10' right of Rage Against the Machine and 15' left of Jungle Blues from Jupiter. There's a better photo of the route under the entry for "The Vaino Step." Follow a line of 5 bolts up a moderate .10b face toward an arete on the right. The 6th bolt is drilled into a large, sloping rest ledge under a 130 degree roof. Undercling the roof then clip the 7th bolt from a chalky, 3/4" edge. Stretch or dyno from the 3/4" edge to a left hand jam in an abrasive crack (strenuous) and work your feet up crystals until you can reach a fin on the right. Clip the 8th bolt (a difficult clip with ledge-fall potential if you bypass it) and struggle over the lip of the overhang on mediocre hand holds. The anchors are a few feet up to the right. Lower 60' from links.

The 15' of climbing from the ledge to the anchors is sustained with several moves of .11c or .11c/d. Tape or a spider mitt will save some skin on your left hand.


Protection 

8 QDs (A shoulder length sling to extend the 6th clip is optional).



Comments on The Host Add Comment
Show which comments
By slim
Administrator
Nov 5, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Accidently climbed this thinking it was Rage.... When I was up there, I was thinking 'damn, this is tougher than I remember it'. Kind of an awkward flick to a weird jam.