The Host  5.11c/d

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.11d [details] FA:  Vaino Kodas & Moe Hershoff, 2003 Submitted By:  Bruce Pech on Sep 2, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The Host

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Description 

Begin about 10' right of Rage Against the Machine and 15' left of Jungle Blues from Jupiter. There's a better photo of the route under the entry for "The Vaino Step." Follow a line of 5 bolts up a moderate .10b face toward an arete on the right. The 6th bolt is drilled into a large, sloping rest ledge under a 130 degree roof. Undercling the roof then clip the 7th bolt from a chalky, 3/4" edge. Stretch or dyno from the 3/4" edge to a left hand jam in an abrasive crack (strenuous) and work your feet up crystals until you can reach a fin on the right. Clip the 8th bolt (a difficult clip with ledge-fall potential if you bypass it) and struggle over the lip of the overhang on mediocre hand holds. The anchors are a few feet up to the right. Lower 60' from links.

The 15' of climbing from the ledge to the anchors is sustained with several moves of .11c or .11c/d. Tape or a spider mitt will save some skin on your left hand.

Protection 

8 QDs (A shoulder length sling to extend the 6th clip is optional).