To the left of the classic, exposed slabs, 'Sex
' and 'Rock n Roll
', there is a proud, jetting arete that hangs over the scattered boulders below. On the North-East face of this hanging arete is a brutal boulder problem of a route that requires thick skin and delicate body position.
Begin on the boulder as you would for 'Drugs
', but climb up the slab directly beneath the arete past a couple bolts on easy 5.11 terrain. When you reach the base of the arete, the climbing gets a bit more difficult, but a jug around the right side allows for you to make your final clip (the last bolt is strictly for working the route and would be nearly impossible to clip on the go). From here, a short series of very difficult moves on worsening holds lies ahead of you, ending with two hard dead-points complete with an exciting fall potential.
I've suggested 5.13+ as a grade estimate, although due to the bouldery nature of the route some may find it easier or perhaps harder...have a go and let me know what you think!!
This lies directly left (around corner) of 'Sex
6 bolts / 2 bolt anchor. All new hardware.
Jul 26, 2010
Stunning line. Didn't finish it up but this thing is great climbing. I will be back!!!!
By j gatchalian
From: denver, co
Jan 21, 2012
That boulder problem is really hard! Cool positioning, though, and fun to work. Gotta get stronger to put this beast down.