The Hook Direct 5.10c R
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Mugs Stump, Jack Roberts, 1977 |
| Submitted By: | Nathan Fisher on Sep 14, 2005 |
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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress.
Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Above the Hook Variation is a two bolt slab off the anchors, that deserves to be climbed more often. Getting to the first bolt is heady, but the physical crux is above the 2nd bolt and is well-protected. Very thin and still flakey. After the bolts there is some serious runout to your only gear placement. 2 separate cams (yellow Metolius, purple DMM) can be placed 3 feet apart in a flake system, followed by a very creative nut placement possibility. Run it out again to the rappell anchors.
Protection 2 draws, some small to medium wallnuts, a couple of small cams 1" or less.
| Comments on The Hook Direct |
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By tenesmus
May 11, 2006
| It IS a cool nut placement. Fun to do Mind Blow, this and then Knobs to Gumbyland for a slab circuit. Just watch your rappels. |
By Brian in SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 19, 2006
| Isn't this really rated 5.10a? Not 5.10c friction for sure. Night and day difference between this route and Mind Blow.
Fully argee with the R rating, though.
Brian in SLC |
By Steve Blevins
From: Central Coast, CA
Jun 5, 2011
rating: 5.10c R
| I have done this climb numerous times over the last 20 years. I have repeated it 3 times in the last year or so and was struck with how difficult it seemed. I did it 6-4-11 (yesterday) after an excellent season in RR and feeling comfortable in LCC.
In previous years I never even slipped. I have always thought of it as 5.10a. I slipped once and fell once. It has simply weathered off most of the dime and quarter edges that used to be available. 5.10c R is a fair rating. |
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