Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Above the Hook Variation is a two bolt slab off the anchors, that deserves to be climbed more often. Getting to the first bolt is heady, but the physical crux is above the 2nd bolt and is well-protected. Very thin and still flakey. After the bolts there is some serious runout to your only gear placement. 2 separate cams (yellow Metolius, purple DMM) can be placed 3 feet apart in a flake system, followed by a very creative nut placement possibility. Run it out again to the rappell anchors.
2 draws, some small to medium wallnuts, a couple of small cams 1" or less.
Isn't this really rated 5.10a? Not 5.10c friction for sure. Night and day difference between this route and Mind Blow.
Fully argee with the R rating, though.
Brian in SLC
By Steve Blevins From: Central Coast, CA Jun 5, 2011 rating: 5.10c6b20VII20E2 5b R
I have done this climb numerous times over the last 20 years. I have repeated it 3 times in the last year or so and was struck with how difficult it seemed. I did it 6-4-11 (yesterday) after an excellent season in RR and feeling comfortable in LCC.
In previous years I never even slipped. I have always thought of it as 5.10a. I slipped once and fell once. It has simply weathered off most of the dime and quarter edges that used to be available. 5.10c R is a fair rating.