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The Hood

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Compton Cave, The 
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The Hood Rock Climbing 

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Location: 36.274, -115.6581 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 21,160
Administrators: Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matt McMurray on Aug 15, 2006
Memorial Day

69° | 50°

72° | 50°

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Mount Charleston Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>


Simply put, the Hood is the most important/best cliff on Mt. Charleston, and is world famous for its incredible concentration of high-quality hard routes. There are many reasons for the Hood's popularity including a short-peasant approach, cool summer air, beautiful alpine surroundings, and most importantly the glassy smooth white limestone that is punctuated by soaring lines of pockets. The quality of the routes go up with the grades, and the Hood boasts four separate limestone caves all with excellent steep routes.

Getting There 

Take S.R. 57 from I-95 all the way past the Mt. Charleston hotel into Kyle Canyon. Follow this road as it winds up the hill until you encounter a sharp left-turning bend in the road. Immediately before this bend, turn right off of the road onto Echo Rd. and continue uphill past the signs toward the Mary Jane Falls turn-off. A short distance farther ahead is the small parking area for the hood at Trail Canyon. If this parking area is full park at the Mary Jane Falls trailhead parking and hike up to the Trail Canyon trailhead.

Hike up Trail Canyon for about five minutes until you can see the distinctive hat-shaped central section of the Hood up on your left. Look for two obvious large red-barked pine trees on your left; the trail up to the Hood starts here. It immediately crosses a small wash and then meets up with a series of switchbacks up the wooded slope towards the Corrosion Cave.

Don't take short cuts... this is a Wilderness Area!! =)

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.7 miles from here

31 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Hood

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Hood:
Feel No Evil   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Souls Slab
Finger Injection   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Infectious Cave / Slab
Witness This   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Pine Tree Ledge
Cut Your Hair Sister   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 50'   South Central
Heating Up the Hood   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Pine Tree Ledge
Across the Universe   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   The Corrosion Cave
Gun Tower   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Pine Tree Ledge
Bloodline   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   South Central
Urban Decay   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 65'   The Infectious Cave / Slab
Animal Attack   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 40'   The Compton Cave
Straight Outta Compton   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Compton Cave
Warlord   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   The Corrosion Cave
Facile   5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   The Compton Cave
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Hood

Featured Route For The Hood
Rock Climbing Photo: getting into the crux section

Heating Up the Hood 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  NV : Mount Charleston : ... : Pine Tree Ledge
To all the 'hardmen' (and women) this is considered the warm-up for the harder pocketed problems. I consider it a great route on its own merits. A mix of face, crack, and pocket climbing technique can be used. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

Comments on The Hood Add Comment
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 16, 2013
As of Summer 2013, the parking area most climbers have used for the Hood has been permanently closed. Instead, please use the large new lot at the bottom of the road (about 100 yards south of the old parking area) and the new trailhead for Trail Canyon.
By Jezryl
May 25, 2013
If you camp near the Mary Janes Falls trail head, make sure to head up the trail 150 yards and head to the left to away from the trail if you are looking for free camping. We talked to a few rangers and they are going to be doing some work in the area right on the west side of the parking area. They were kind and helpful so please be respectful so we don't lose any free camping. Sites start at 20-30 around here.

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