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F Crags
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Beach Boy T 
Dune Buggy T 
Easy Street T,S 
Holy Braille, The T 
More Madness T 
Reefer Madness T 
Slab Happy T 
Under the Influence.  S 
Under the Spell S 

The Holy Braille 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 560', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Paul Ross Layne Potter .16th Oct.2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 941
Submitted By: USBRIT on Oct 17, 2007

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Paul Ross half way on the 190' first pitch .

Description 

Starts from the slot canyon immediately south of the Reefer Madness Formation. Climbs the north wall .Scramble up the canyon for about 300' to the hour glass shaped slab.The climb takes a fine exposed route up slabs/grooves and the final pitch is a line of interesting pot holes (very holy)

(P1. Climb the slab passed a bolt towards the left arete.Move around this edge and into an alcove. Continue up the left edge passed two more bolts and some cams to double anchors below the obvious groove. 190'5.8R
(P2. Sustained climbing up the groove passed four bolts to double anchors below an open notch.180'5.9R.
(P3.The holy pitch .Move up to the notch and flat rock ledge ,cross this to the left and make delicate move around a bulge and enter the line of holes . Follow these to the top of the climb (some cam pro)to belay on two good natural threads (left in place on FA}.190'5.7.

Descent:-It would be difficult to rap down the route as it is on an angle.? Instead scramble up easy slabs from last belay to easy ground. From here forth class down the low angled slabs for several hundred feet keeping more to the right side(south). When the slabs steepen keep a lookout for the rap anchors of a route named Slab Family Ross and Son. When this is found, rap straight down and at about 200' intervals two more rap anchors will be found making a total of 3 raps to some 4th class slabs .Scramble to the right (south)down these heading towards the entrance of the slot canyon.

Location 

Park at the Univa Trail head and walk north for about 20/25 mins,until opposite the Reefer formation then walk into the slot canyon . Scramble up the canyon on the slabs for about 300' until the hour glass shaped slab is reached.

Protection 

Cams from 1/4" to #3.5 Friend. slings Two 60 M ropes.


Photos of The Holy Braille Slideshow Add Photo
Layne packing out at the end of the climb with the Auguille du Geant formation in the background.
Layne packing out at the end of the climb with the...
Layne on a couple of delicate moves near the top of the first pitch
Layne on a couple of delicate moves near the top o...
Near the top of the 190' Holy third pitch.
Near the top of the 190' Holy third pitch.
Paul in the groove of the 180' second pitch
Paul in the groove of the 180' second pitch
The Reefer Madness area. (A. By the Seat of your Pants.5.8 (B The 3 Mittan  climbs. (C. The Holy Braille.5.9. (D. Slab Family Ross and Son 5.9. (E. Reefer Madness. 5.9.....
The Reefer Madness area. (A. By the Seat of your P...

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By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Jun 15, 2014

Very good rock and situations