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> F Crags
The Holy Braille
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in F Crags
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Beach Boy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Dune Buggy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Easy Street T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Holy Braille, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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More Madness T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Reefer Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Slab Happy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Under the Influence. S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Under the Spell S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 560 ft (170 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Paul Ross Layne Potter .16th Oct.2007 |
| Page Views: | 1,858 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Ross on Oct 17, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
Starts from the slot canyon immediately south of the Reefer Madness Formation. Climbs the north wall .Scramble up the canyon for about 300' to the hour glass shaped slab.The climb takes a fine exposed route up slabs/grooves and the final pitch is a line of interesting pot holes (very holy)
(P1. Climb the slab passed a bolt towards the left arete.Move around this edge and into an alcove. Continue up the left edge passed two more bolts and some cams to double anchors below the obvious groove. 190'5.8R
(P2. Sustained climbing up the groove passed four bolts to double anchors below an open notch.180'5.9R.
(P3.The holy pitch .Move up to the notch and flat rock ledge ,cross this to the left and make delicate move around a bulge and enter the line of holes . Follow these to the top of the climb (some cam pro)to belay on two good natural threads (left in place on FA}.190'5.7.
Descent:-It would be difficult to rap down the route as it is on an angle.? Instead scramble up easy slabs from last belay to easy ground. From here forth class down the low angled slabs for several hundred feet keeping more to the right side(south). When the slabs steepen keep a lookout for the rap anchors of a route named Slab Family Ross and Son. When this is found, rap straight down and at about 200' intervals two more rap anchors will be found making a total of 3 raps to some 4th class slabs .Scramble to the right (south)down these heading towards the entrance of the slot canyon.
(P1. Climb the slab passed a bolt towards the left arete.Move around this edge and into an alcove. Continue up the left edge passed two more bolts and some cams to double anchors below the obvious groove. 190'5.8R
(P2. Sustained climbing up the groove passed four bolts to double anchors below an open notch.180'5.9R.
(P3.The holy pitch .Move up to the notch and flat rock ledge ,cross this to the left and make delicate move around a bulge and enter the line of holes . Follow these to the top of the climb (some cam pro)to belay on two good natural threads (left in place on FA}.190'5.7.
Descent:-It would be difficult to rap down the route as it is on an angle.? Instead scramble up easy slabs from last belay to easy ground. From here forth class down the low angled slabs for several hundred feet keeping more to the right side(south). When the slabs steepen keep a lookout for the rap anchors of a route named Slab Family Ross and Son. When this is found, rap straight down and at about 200' intervals two more rap anchors will be found making a total of 3 raps to some 4th class slabs .Scramble to the right (south)down these heading towards the entrance of the slot canyon.
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