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 ADVANCED
The Hideout
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Brat Slamit S 
Claim Jumper S 
Freedom Fried S 
Gray Hares T 
Grubstake S 
Harrassment S,TR 
Holdup, The S 
Playing Shark With Chrissy S 
Usual Suspects, The S,TR 

The Holdup 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Equipped by Mark Rolofson 2001, F.A. Peter Beal 2003, F.F.A. Taylor Roy
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,062
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Apr 27, 2008

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The Holdup is the center arete.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Holdup was bolted by Mark Rolofson in 2001, and referred to as Anger Management in his Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Vol II, The Upper Canyon. It climbs the short, clean, slightly overhanging, center arete at the Hideout. More like a long boulder problem than a route, The Holdup is perfect for anyone interested in testing their power endurance.

To begin scamble up about 15 feet of easy terrain, clip the first bolt, and mantle onto a shelf below the arete. This is your last chance to rest. From here, sprint up the arete, making increasingly difficult, and technical moves, until you get to a reachy crux, which is followed by a strenuous clip and a very cool but draining mantle sequence that takes you to the chains.

This route missed classic status because it lacks the aesthetics and length that people expect of a four star route. However, The Holdup compensates for this with amazing moves, great rock, and a nice line. Plus, being South facing, and well out of the canyon, this is a great option for cold, sunny days in the winter.

Due to the distance between holds at the crux, this route could feel a bit easier for tall people and way harder for short people. Anyways, I encourage people to get on it. Hopefully, the Holdup doesn't rob as many days, and finger tips from you as it did from me!

Location 

The Holdup is the central arete, just left of Harrassment.

Protection 

7 bolts, plus a 2 bolt anchor with rappel rings.


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By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Apr 27, 2008

Good job Taylor, I worked on this route for quite a while but the crux holds always felt a bit too far apart. The grade seems very solid and probably harder if you're much shorter than 5'5".
By Taylor Roy
From: Boulder, Co
Apr 29, 2008

Thanks Peter. I would also like to thank Mark Rolofson for cleaning, and equipping this route. Without him, many of the routes in Boulder Canyon wouldn't exist.