|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||U F.A. Hollingsworth, Lowell 1973|
|Submitted By:||Craig Childre on Sep 29, 2006|
|Comments on The Hobbit||Add Comment|
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By Andrew Klein
Jul 18, 2007
|The first 15 feet is like a flaring seam hand crack you find at Lumpy Ridge, CO. You can jam some small aliens or the like in the way back about 10 feet up. Cheers!|
Jan 5, 2009
|Or just start on the boulder to the right, you can stem out over the "start hole" and put a .75 in the flake up high on the left and then fire on up.|
By Chris Walden
Apr 24, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
The first part of this climb is stout and as mentioned not advising new leaders to tackle this, practice elsewhere. The crack is more of a flared water crack making placing pro difficult.
I'll grade the start more at 5.9 (easier than the S-Wall), however, the second pitch is short but runs at 5.7
The start of the climb had poison ivy and the first 15 - 20 feet is unprotectable. I would suggest climbing the boulder to the right, placing a bomber nut (photo with green arrow) with a full length sling and climb on.