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South Early Winters Spire
Select Route:
Boving Roofs T 
Direct East Buttress T 
Hitchhiker, The T 
Northwest Face (Boving-Pollock) T 
Passenger, The T 
South Arete T 
Southern Man T 
Southwest Couloir 
Southwest Rib T 

The Hitchhiker 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 900', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bryan Burdo and Scott Johnston 2007
Page Views: 4,053
Submitted By: Nicola Masciandaro on Aug 18, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: The slab traverse at the start of p5.

Description 

The route ascends the south face of South Early Winters Spire and starts in a small left-facing dihedral with 4 bolts.

Protection 

doubles to 2", 60m rope


Photos of The Hitchhiker Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: SEWS Hitchhiker and Passenger route overlays.
BETA PHOTO: SEWS Hitchhiker and Passenger route overlays.
Rock Climbing Photo: p5 5.11- traverse
p5 5.11- traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 from the start.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 from the start.
Rock Climbing Photo: route description from CascadeClimbers
BETA PHOTO: route description from CascadeClimbers
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down p2
BETA PHOTO: looking down p2
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of pitch 8. Climb through the tree and u...
The start of pitch 8. Climb through the tree and u...
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex & Adam (I think) working on Pitch 2 as seen f...
BETA PHOTO: Alex & Adam (I think) working on Pitch 2 as seen f...
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down on p2
looking down on p2
Rock Climbing Photo: topo via Blake Herrington on CascadeClimbers
topo via Blake Herrington on CascadeClimbers
Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd pitch
2nd pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd pitch of Hitchhiker
2nd pitch of Hitchhiker
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Hitchhiker on approach
BETA PHOTO: View of Hitchhiker on approach
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the top of pitch 6. Just around the corner af...
Near the top of pitch 6. Just around the corner af...
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 2 - slabs to corner crack
pitch 2 - slabs to corner crack
Rock Climbing Photo: One of the routes closer to the saddle. This is no...
One of the routes closer to the saddle. This is no...

Comments on The Hitchhiker Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rafe
Jun 23, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Given the bolted belays and the amount of protection bolts on the pitches I'd dare to say a rack of singles would work for this route. I can't think of a pitch that doubles were placed on. One thing that consistently stuck out to me while on the route was the absurd amount of gear I had on my harness while arriving at each belay, which was a set of doubles to 2" with a 3" and 4" singles.

Excellent route.
By kerwinl
Jul 7, 2014
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Pitch 8 of route description in photo above goes completely free at around 11b, look for the fingers/tips jams in the corner formed by the roof and face. A much better alternative then aiding through, if you still have the strength left. Amazing route!
By James Ellis
From: Seattle, Washington
Jun 6, 2016
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Really fun day of climbing on high quality rock. I agree with Kerwin, pitch 8 (pitch 7 in the new Cascades Rock book) felt about 5.11b compared to the other 5.11a pitches on the climb. Also the topo in the book lists the following pitch as 5.11b, but it is actually more like 5.10b.

Lots of unnecessary bolts on this one..
By Derek Soike
Jun 7, 2016

Climbed the Hitchhiker on 6/5/2016.

There are a couple bolted lines maybe five minutes from the saddle along the base of the wall. The Passenger and the Hitchhiker are a ways further. Does anyone know what these are?

We used Ian Nicholson's topo from the Washington Pass Climbing book. At the top of pitch 4 climb the juggy thing, not the crack in the corner. Linking pitches 5 & 6 is recommended. There were many more bolts than shown on the topo on pitch 7 getting up to the crux. Don't miss the bolt on the lip just after pulling through the 11b fingers on pitch 7. The start of pitch 8 required climbing through a tree and up a wide crack to reach the bolt line on the 5.10 slab (this is not shown on the topo).

We brought doubles to 2", one 3", and one 4". There are a bunch of wide sections that would take a 5", but if you're comfortable running out 5.7/5.8 wide-ish stuff you don't need it.

I'd recommend also looking at Blake Herrington's topo in his Cascades Rock book. Not quite as much detail but a bit more accurate in my opinion.
By blakeherrington
Jun 9, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

In reference to the topos and description in Cascades Rock (which I wrote):

  • James Ellis is correct and Cascades Rock has a typo - P8 as described on Page 172 should say .10b not .11b - the topo on Page 173 has it correct where it says ".10 steep hands".

  • The mystery bolts and anchors on the face to the left of The Passenger and Hitchhiker are in the vicinity of (or on the lower part of) a likely unrepeated aid route called "The Midnight Ride" (Coultrip-Sanford 1977) - The visible modern hardware is (I think...) part of a 1 or 2 pitch 5.11+ free climb which Bryan Burdo bolted. I don't believe it tops out.
By Nicola Masciandaro
Jun 11, 2016

Anyone have beta on the bolted line to the right of Hitchhiker? I did a couple very good slabby pitches of it by mistake a couple years ago. Is it Escargot?

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