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The Highlands aka Highlander

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Head S 
Big Man On Campus S 
Blue Sky Mining S 
Burning Chrome S 
Dirt Me S 
Drop Zone S 
Gear Head T 
Get a Job S 
Get A Life T 
Get Insurance T 
Herb- A- Med- Veg- A- Matic S 
Highlander S 
Job Review S 
Job Security S 
Leap of Faith S 
Learning to Crawl S 
Lord of the Rings S 
Micro Chip S 
Neo-Quasi Bugaloo S 
Not One Of Us S 
Outsider, The S 
Peer 42 S 
Peer Pressure S 
Peer Review S 
Red Tag Hag S 
Resume S 
Smack That Bitch Up S 
Stiff Upper Lip S 
Tarzan S 
Wind Machine S 

The Highlands aka Highlander  


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Location: 39.73821, -105.3164 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 53,856
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Aug 27, 2001
Forecast:
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Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The crag is located on top of the hill above the New River Wall. It is an excellent crag that receives lots of sun. This makes for great winter crag. The routes here tend to be vertical to overhung, often containing small roofs to navigate. The bolting is generous and safe. Overall, this is a great area, but the twenty minute approach limits its popularity. That said, this cliff makes for a less-crowded climbing area if you are willing to walk a little. Most routes are in the 5.10 - 5.11 range, with a few 5.12s that are very good. It should be noted that many of the 5.10 lines are soft for the grade and make good routes for the 5.9 leader who is aspiring to lead 5.10. Most of the routes are on solid stone, but some of the less traveled routes will have some loose rock, still. In general, the right (main) wall is very solid, while the routes on the left side tend to be a bit more loose.

Getting There 

Park at the large paved pullout before Tunnel 2. Walk up the road on the right side and cross the bridge. Then look to your right and locate a small climbers trail heading back dowstream (same as for The New River Wall). Continue on this trail above a treacherous section of cliff and past Twitch Rock. The trail continues up to a flat area, where the faint trail for New River Wall heads right and downstream. Stay on the main trail (left fork), heading up hill. Continue up the trail, with some slabby rock sections for about 400 yds to the top. The trail will put you a little left of a prominent, right-facing dihedral with two bolted lines on it (Peer Pressure (5.12a) and Peer Review (5.12b), and a trad climb in the corner. This is the main division of the wall and represents the landmark for the wall, splitting it into right and left sides. Routes listed will be in reference to this dihedral. Allow 20 minutes for the approach.

Addendum: some may use the optional, riskier Tyrolean.

L->R: 

Left Face

A. Tarzan, 12+, 1p, bolts.
B. Leap of Faith, 12+ 1p, bolts.
C. Microchip, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts.
DC. Red Tag Hag, 12+, 1p, 45', bolts.
E. Wind Machine, 11+, 1p, bolts.
F. Highlander, 10+, 1p, bolts.
G. Stiff Upper Lip, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.

Main Face

H1. Get a Life, 7, 1p, 150', gear.
H2. Get Insurance, 9+, 1p, 150', gear.
I. Get a Job, 11-, 1p, 135', bolts.
J. Job Review, 11-, 1p, 135', bolts.
K1. Peer Pressure, 12, 1p, 120', bolts.
K2. Peer 42, 13-, 1p variation to K3, bolts.
K3. Peer Review, 12, 2p, 100?', bolts.
K4. Gearhead, 9, 1p, 75',gear.
K5. Airhead, 9+, 1p, 70', bolts.
L. Herb-A-Med-Veg-A-Matic, 11-, 1p, 95', bolts.
M. Neo-Quasi Bugaloo, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.
N. Learning to Crawl, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.
O. Blue Sky Mining, 11+, 1p, 85', bolts.
P. Burning Chrome, 11, 1p, 85', bolts.
Q. Job Security, 11, 1-2p, 150', bolts.
R. Not One of Us, 12-, 3p, <200', bolts.
S. Resume, 9, 1p, bolts.
T. The Outsider, 11+, 1p, 95', bolts.
U. Smack that Bitch Up, 11, 1p, 100', bolts.
V. Big Man on Campus, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts.

East Face

W. Drop Zone, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
X. Dirt Me, 12- PG-13, 1p, 80', bolts.
Y. Lord of the Rings, 10, 1p, bolts.

Below East Face

Z. Wheezer, 12-, 1p, bolts.
AAZ. Geezer, 11+, 1p, bolts.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.0 miles from here

30 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',6],['5.11',9],['5.12',9],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Highlands aka Highlander:
Gear Head   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Neo-Quasi Bugaloo   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Learning to Crawl   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Job Review   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 135'   
Get a Job   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 135'   
Herb-A-Med-Veg-A-Matic   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Job Security   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   
Smack That Bitch Up   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Outsider   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Burning Chrome   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Blue Sky Mining   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Not One Of Us   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 3 pitches   
Big Man On Campus   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Peer Pressure   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Peer Review   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Leap of Faith   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Peer 42   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in The Highlands aka Highlander

Featured Route For The Highlands aka Highlander
Like the tights?  First 13a.  Big moment up there for me.  Sent 2/4/2010.

Peer 42 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  CO : Golden : ... : The Highlands aka Highlande...
This route is a variation to Peer Review, taking an alternate line through the first roof. Do the first pitch of Peer Review and continue up the left hand line of bolts staying right of the arete. Long slings in a couple of places or unclipping some bolts will be necessary to avoid rope drag on this long pitch. A 60m rope will reach to the ledge. I'm not sure if anyone has done the right hand variation yet. The hardest part of that was after the roof, being able to...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of The Highlands aka Highlander Slideshow Add Photo
The crag, from the road.
BETA PHOTO: The crag, from the road.
Park on the westbound side of the road or this could be you.
BETA PHOTO: Park on the westbound side of the road or this cou...

Comments on The Highlands aka Highlander Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Carter
From: Monument, CO
Jul 12, 2002
Just want to say thanks to those who envisioned the ideas and then made those ideas a reality for us to share. These routes are well thought out, well constructed and a real blast to climb!!

RATTLESNAKES! FYI - starting seeing and hearing the rattlers, early July, there was one hanging out right below Resume and one near Dirt Me - They are there, but they don't seem to mind climbers much as long as they are left alone.....
By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Mar 10, 2008
This crag is refered to as Highlander in the guidebooks....
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Mar 29, 2008
I would recommend staying clear of this crag on the windy days...unless you're looking to make things a little more interesting up there.
By Harald Harb
From: Dumont
Nov 1, 2008
This is a sensational climbing area; lots of moderate 5.11s to cut your teeth on, excellent rock. I used to drive to Shelf and Rifle to get more interesting, challenging climbing. Who needs to, the Crags in Clear Creek are varied, interesting and quality, and just a stone’s throw from my doorstep. Thanks to the climbers who put in the hard work, and dedication to make Clear Creek a premier climbing center. At least we owe you guys beers, every one of us! Beers on me if I meet you in the canyon. And thanks to Darren for a great new guide book! You brought “The Creek”, the support and recognition it deserves.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Nov 17, 2008
I found a smoking device on Highlander today while climbing. I would be happy to return it to the owner, if you can describe it to me it's all yours.
By Rachel Paietta
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 7, 2009
Anyone have a list of the routes from L->R on the wall? I ended up getting on one of the 11s as a warm up instead of Resume yesterday. Not quite the easy start I was envisioning. Thanks
By Mikekd
From: Mammoth lakes, CA
Jun 3, 2011
Great place to climb. I left a jacket (gray, light wind-breaker, size M) here Wednesday May 25th. Anyone happen to find it? I would greatly appreciate it if I could get it back. Climbing Karma will follow.
By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
May 4, 2012
The comment about avoiding Highlander on a windy day is advisable, this crag is a very interesting place with 40-50mph gusts.
By Parker Wrozek
Oct 12, 2014
Fun place with no crowds. Even if you don't climb 11s, there are a few awesome routes that make the trip up well worth it. Look for the stacks of stones on the way up to find the trail. It is really easy to get off the main way up.

I enjoy going on a weekend and watching the crowds at High Wire while we climb in peace.