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The High Life 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jay Knower, 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 676
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Jul 4, 2009
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Nick Rhoads leading The High Life, 3/18/10.

Description 

The High Life climbs an independent line between Dancing Madly Backwards Direct and Curving Crack. Start on juggy, steep climbing left of Curving Crack and climb to a ledge. Next, move onto the thin, lower-angled face. This is the crux for many. Resist the urge to use holds on Dancing Madly Backwards.

Once past the thin crux, head up and right under a shallow overhang, pull the overhang by using a cool sequence involving a lock-off on a slopey pocket. Climb slopey horizontals to the top. Make sure to stay on the face--the right corner is out of bounds for the whole route.

It's possible to link the wall of Dancing Madly Backwards Direct into the crux of The High Life, thereby producing The High Life Direct, a 5.11c crimping exercise.


Protection 

Toprope. It could be led using the DL in reach rule.



Photos of The High Life Slideshow Add Photo
The High Life is shown in yellow. The High Life Direct is the green line.
The High Life is shown in yellow. The High Life Di...
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By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 4, 2009

This is a great line. The movement is really good. Needs to see more traffic now that it is pretty clean. Nice eye Jay.

By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Jul 5, 2009

Fun line, the crux for me ended up being the "nipple" traverse into the lockoff on the slopey pocket.

After it gets a bit cleaner definitely 3-stars.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 5, 2009

Nice Jay!!

By Tradoholic
Mar 19, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c R

Led the direct, pro is pretty weak to start, then bomber in the first roof, one ok medium cam before hitting the top slab, then sketchy micro cams to the top. Not too dirty at all! Double ropes would have been nice for this route.

I didnt use the holds on Dancing Madly but I did break my rule and plug pro in the roof because otherwise the runout would have been quite reckless.

Really fun moves on thos one. Felt like climbing quartzite moves but on some good friction.

By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Aug 22, 2011

Went back to this on Thursday and could not figure out the slab before the small roof. Felt totally impossible, how the hell did I get past that before? My slab skills must be deteriorating...