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The High Horns

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Dingleberry 
Gendarmes 
Lost Peak 
Razorback 
Spike, The 
Spire, The 
Third Peak 
Tooth, The 
Wedge, The 
Wildcat 

The High Horns 


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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Marta Reece on Jul 23, 2013
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Organ Mountains from the East. Just beautiful!

Description 

From the south: The Wedge, Lost Peak, Third Peak, Dingleberry, Wildcat, Razorback, and The Spire (with The Spike sticking out of its long north face). Not all of the peaks are visible from all angles, Lost Peak in particular tends to disappear behind its neighbors when the range is approached from the east. Third Peak, Dingleberry, Wildcat, and Razorback all have non-technical or nearly non-technical routes to their summits.

The Tooth is a sub-peak short distance to the south of the western foot of the Wedge. Gendarmes are on that western flank of the Wedge.

The most popular climbing routes, and the best rock, are at the south end of this area - The Tooth and The Wedge - and somewhat less on on the north end - Razorback, Spire, and Spike. The area between is both less exciting and less accessible and consequently had minimal traffic.


Getting There 

If approaching from Aguirre Springs, take the Pine Tree Trail. For The Spire and Razorback take the north fork of the trail and go up the canyon between Low Horn 6 and The Spire. For the other High Horns, start up from the middle point of the Pine Tree Trail. Go up a ridge and pick the gully to follow higher up.

From the west come in on Modoc Mine Road. For Wildcat and Dingleberry, leave the road just before it starts climbing. Go left before the house-size boulder and take the ridge line trending almost northward. There is a faint trail among all those ocotillos. The ridge will eventually turn right and take you to the foothills. From there go left to Wildcat Gully, and on up. The Wedge can be approached in the same way or done from the trail to The Tooth.

To go to The Tooth, follow the Modoc Mine Road to its end and then follow the trail to the Needle from there. Turn left off that trail at a cairn on a ridge line. The ridge should be one left of the ridge on which The Tooth is located. The trail will cross a gully and then take that next ridge to The Tooth.


19 Total Routes


['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The High Horns:
The West Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   The Wedge
Tooth Fairy   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 450'   The Tooth
Shillelagh   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 800'   The Wedge
Tooth or Consequences   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 550'   The Tooth
Tooth Extraction   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   The Tooth
Browse More Classics in The High Horns

Featured Route For The High Horns
Starting up the physical dihedral pitch, pitch 5, of Tooth Extraction.

Tooth Extraction 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b  NM : Organ Mountains : ... : The Tooth
This climb seeks out the obvious left-facing dihedral on the right side of the clean face on the Tooth. The climbing is more physical and burlier than that of the other routes, but is high quality nonetheless.Pitch 1. Climb the thin crack below the triangular roof, clip a fixed nut, and traverse right to a 1-bolt (+your own gear) belay at the corner of the roof. (5.8) This pitch is the same as the start of Tooth Fairy and Tooth or Consequences, and a couple of other variations exist too (a ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of The High Horns Slideshow Add Photo
Les beautiful but more informative.
BETA PHOTO: Les beautiful but more informative.
The large peak is The Wedge. The smaller  formation at the right foot of this is The Tooth. To the left of The Wedge is Lost Peak, with Third Peak appearing as a small bump. The rounded shape left of that group is Dingleberry. <br /> <br />Photo by Steve
BETA PHOTO: The large peak is The Wedge. The smaller formatio...
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