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The High Horns

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Dingleberry 
Gendarmes 
Lost Peak 
Razorback 
Spike, The 
Spire, The 
Third Peak 
Tooth, The 
Wedge, The 
Wildcat 

The High Horns  


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Location: 32.3631, -106.57891 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,946
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Marta Reece on Jul 23, 2013
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Organ Mountains from the East. Just beautiful!

Description 

From the south: The Wedge, Lost Peak, Third Peak, Dingleberry, Wildcat, Razorback, and The Spire (with The Spike sticking out of its long north face). Not all of the peaks are visible from all angles, Lost Peak in particular tends to disappear behind its neighbors when the range is approached from the east. Third Peak, Dingleberry, Wildcat, and Razorback all have non-technical or nearly non-technical routes to their summits.

The Tooth is a sub-peak short distance to the south of the western foot of the Wedge. Gendarmes are on that western flank of the Wedge.

The most popular climbing routes, and the best rock, are at the south end of this area - The Tooth and The Wedge - and somewhat less on on the north end - Razorback, Spire, and Spike. The area between is both less exciting and less accessible and consequently had minimal traffic.

Getting There 

If approaching from Aguirre Springs, take the Pine Tree Trail. For The Spire and Razorback take the north fork of the trail and go up the canyon between Low Horn 6 and The Spire. For the other High Horns, start up from the middle point of the Pine Tree Trail. Go up a ridge and pick the gully to follow higher up.

From the west come in on Modoc Mine Road. For Wildcat and Dingleberry, leave the road just before it starts climbing. Go left before the house-size boulder and take the ridge line trending almost northward. There is a faint trail among all those ocotillos. The ridge will eventually turn right and take you to the foothills. From there go left to Wildcat Gully, and on up. The Wedge can be approached in the same way or done from the trail to The Tooth.

To go to The Tooth, follow the Modoc Mine Road to its end and then follow the trail to the Needle from there. Turn left off that trail at a cairn on a ridge line. The ridge should be one left of the ridge on which The Tooth is located. The trail will cross a gully and then take that next ridge to The Tooth.

Climbing Season



Weather station 11.3 miles from here

19 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The High Horns:
The West Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   The Wedge
Tooth Fairy   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 450'   The Tooth
Shillelagh   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 800'   The Wedge
Tooth or Consequences   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 550'   The Tooth
Tooth Extraction   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   The Tooth
Browse More Classics in The High Horns

Featured Route For The High Horns
Looking up at the start of P0. The small "roof" is passed on the left making a scary slab move. The parallel grooves are seen above.

The West Ridge 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  NM : Organ Mountains : ... : The Wedge
This climb can be done in 3-5 pitches, depending on the comfort level of the climbers. The ridge breaks itself up nicely into several shoulders which make ideal and stunning belay ledges. The start can easily be picked out from afar by noting two huge parallel grooves about halfway up the west ridge.P1: 5.6-5.7. Climb up a corner system to the north of the two grooves. There is some vegetation here, as well as loose blocks. Stretching a 60m rope to its maximum allows you to reach a nice belay st...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of The High Horns Slideshow Add Photo
Les beautiful but more informative.
BETA PHOTO: Les beautiful but more informative.
The large peak is The Wedge. The smaller  formation at the right foot of this is The Tooth. To the left of The Wedge is Lost Peak, with Third Peak appearing as a small bump. The rounded shape left of that group is Dingleberry. <br /> <br />Photo by Steve
BETA PHOTO: The large peak is The Wedge. The smaller formatio...

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