The High Horns Rock Climbing
Organ Mountains from the East. Just beautiful!
From the south: The Wedge, Lost Peak, Third Peak, Dingleberry, Wildcat, Razorback, and The Spire (with The Spike sticking out of its long north face). Not all of the peaks are visible from all angles, Lost Peak in particular tends to disappear behind its neighbors when the range is approached from the east. Third Peak, Dingleberry, Wildcat, and Razorback all have non-technical or nearly non-technical routes to their summits.
The Tooth is a sub-peak short distance to the south of the western foot of the Wedge. Gendarmes are on that western flank of the Wedge.
The most popular climbing routes, and the best rock, are at the south end of this area - The Tooth and The Wedge - and somewhat less on on the north end - Razorback, Spire, and Spike. The area between is both less exciting and less accessible and consequently had minimal traffic.
If approaching from Aguirre Springs, take the Pine Tree Trail. For The Spire and Razorback take the north fork of the trail and go up the canyon between Low Horn 6 and The Spire. For the other High Horns, start up from the middle point of the Pine Tree Trail. Go up a ridge and pick the gully to follow higher up.
From the west come in on Modoc Mine Road. For Wildcat and Dingleberry, leave the road just before it starts climbing. Go left before the house-size boulder and take the ridge line trending almost northward. There is a faint trail among all those ocotillos. The ridge will eventually turn right and take you to the foothills. From there go left to Wildcat Gully, and on up. The Wedge can be approached in the same way or done from the trail to The Tooth.
To go to The Tooth, follow the Modoc Mine Road to its end and then follow the trail to the Needle from there. Turn left off that trail at a cairn on a ridge line. The ridge should be one left of the ridge on which The Tooth is located. The trail will cross a gully and then take that next ridge to The Tooth.
Climbing Season For the Organ Mountains area.
Weather station 11.3 miles from here
20 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The High Horns
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The High Horns:
Featured Route For The High Horns
Tooth Fairy 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a NM
: Organ Mountains
: ... : The Tooth
This is the most direct of the climbs on the Tooth. It follows the most obvious weaknesses up the face, the most prominent being the beautiful crack that slices down the large slab half-way up the route. Some of the cracks have some vegetation and dirt in them, but for the most part the climbing is clean. The route offers good variety too, throwing everything except steep face-climbing at you.Pitch 1, 80ft: Starts with a short lay-back and continues up a grass-filled crack until it pinches down ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM