The Hernia 

The Hernia is a good fun climb with several hard sections. Getting off the ground gets you thinking, getting into the left facing flake above is awkward and insecure, and the upper face past the bolt is a bit intimidating. Rap anchors send you directly over Winter Solstice (11c) for a good look at nothing and works as a great top rope for this smear fest of a route.

This is a fantastic climb for the grade. The crux (shifting from the right-arching crack to a left-facing lieback on rounded holds) was heady and sustained but rewards the leader with a bomber rest afterwards. I mostly led this with aliens - very few cam placements over .75 Camelot.

Always interesting to find out what others have used for gear. I found placements for a 1, 2, and 3 Camalot.

This was a very nice route and 5.8 seems like a reasonable grade. We did do the bolted face extension and it seemed harder than the 10a given in the guidebook. Especially when part of the best right handhold broke off. Perhaps it has gotten harder over time.

I would give this route 2 stars. Excellent representation of 5.8 with a fantastic finish. USed tri-cams, nuts, #3 and others.

I loved this climb, It's good for the person who is a bit more intimidated by a roof, because this one is easy to get over. I suggest you protect just below and then just go over, protect after you're up. If you commit to the move it's more secure to just get over it to a better hold first ( don't bother placing under the roof).

Nice fun route considering it has been raining and the rocks were a bit wet. The roof was definitely a fun section even on top rope. Thanks to Clark Jacobs and Russell Romero for showing us around. Even w/ the torrential rain and t-storms, we still managed to get a few climbs in! What a fun weekend! :)

Bill said it.