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 ADVANCED
The Dungeon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ball and Chain S 
Heretic, The S 
Last Request S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Heretic 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Tony Yaniro, 1988
Page Views: 828
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Jun 21, 2012

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Sending the Heretic...photo by my 6 year old, Luca...

Description 

This is a fantastic sport climb that was WAY ahead of its time. The rock is perfect, and the moves are elaborate, unusual, and hard. I didn't detect any chipping or other "funny business" on this route, which means it's probably the hardest "natural" route at the City/Castles.

Start about 10 feet left of the dihedral under a small roof that guards a blunt prow. This contrived, but fun start includes an inconsequential crux gaining the face above the roof--think "outside the box". After getting past the initial face, get a no-hands rest in the corner before the crux.

The crux climbs the very steep (45 deg) scooped-out hueco features. I used some very elaborate and odd (even by modern standards) moves to overcome this crux, and I couldn't help but think that when this route was first climbed, these moves would have seemed very unconventional...just more proof of Yaniro's amazing vision and talent for climbing.

This is a fantastic route, and this little crag is a great place to hang out on a hot day...it stays shady well into late afternoon due to its steep nature.

Location 

At the Dungeon, there are three routes all squeezed together that kind of confuse things. The Heretic is the left-most route. It starts under a small roof and climbs up a blunt prow for the first couple bolts (not in the corner where Ball and Chain starts). After the initial crux, it climbs over to the corner to B & C then heads straight up the overhanging hueco feature where B & C moves right around the blunt prow on jugs.

Protection 

bolts


Photos of The Heretic Slideshow Add Photo
Metolius ad with Jim Karn on <em>The Heretic</em> (5.13b), City of Rocks. Photo by Greg Epperson.
Metolius ad with Jim Karn on The Heretic ...

Comments on The Heretic Add Comment
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By Sam Perkins
From: Rexburg, ID
Jun 24, 2012

There's actually one route just left of the Heretic. I can't remember what it's called, but I'll post it when I find out.
By Sam Perkins
From: Rexburg, ID
Jun 26, 2012

Also, Yaniro sent it in '88, just so you know
By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Aug 29, 2012

Sam, yes there is a route left of the Heretic, but I was referring to the fact that there are 3 very closely spaced routes fight in the B&C area, and of these 3 routes, The Heretic is the left-most route. Thanks for the FA update.
By peachy spohn
Jun 24, 2013

I also didn't detect any manufacturing of holds on this route. However, I was talking with Ranger Brad (super nice and knowledgeable guy) and he brought up a rumor that possibly the "Spud" was glued on to the wall. When I climbed Heretic I didn't notice or even think about the Spud being a glued on hold, but I wasn't paying much attention. I wonder? A very fun and energetic route and definitely felt like 13b. Get on it!
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Feb 1, 2014

Jim Karn flashed The Heretic around 1990 if I recall the date correctly. It was during a time in which almost no other Americans were doing 5.13 first try. Europeans were tearing up Smith Rock and 5.13 onsights and flashes were no big deal, especially on Euorpean limestone. Karn's ascent was considered impressive in that at least one American was finally able to match the Europeans, and his future was promising. I think it was rated 5.13a at the time also.