|Original: || Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]|
|FA: ||Jeff Sleuter|
|Page Views: ||1,319|
|Submitted By: ||JNE on Jun 10, 2009|
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This is one of Vedauwoos best roof problems. The meat of the roof is a ten foot positive sloper rail followed by another ten foot positive sloper rail. At the end of the second rail, move out left to another smaller rail containing a positive crimp and then rock up onto the slab and top out. Getting from the end of the big rail to standing up on the slab is the crux. This one is an absolute classic.
Walk up as if going to Desiderata
but when you hit the boulder filled gully before the slabs take a right and contour the gully. This problem is on a very large boulder on about the level of the gully, and it is on the easternmost side of the formation. The problem faces uphill, and is distinguished by its unique, V-shaped rail feature.
A couple of pads for the lip.
Jun 10, 2009
This one was originally discovered by Jeff Sleuter and Pat Goodman and that crew, and the refound years later by Josh Helke and Trevor Turmelle. I posted the original name and grade, though it is also in the latest bouldering guidebook as Good Vibrations or some other name.
Aug 17, 2009
rating: V5-6 6C+
Crazy cool mantle(s). In Davin's book this line is called Best in Show V5/6. Good Vibrations is the name for the problem that follows a smaller rail from this problem's start directly out of the roof. It gets a V7 in the book.
Oct 3, 2009
Indeed Molony, you are correct thanks for clearing that up, the Good Vibrations line added was the right thinner line on the boulder traverses left to same finish. The left line was known to be climbed years ago and was not renamed by Myself or Trevor but in the publishing of the guide.
Davin's awesome knowledge of the area was overshadowed by editing decisions NOT ON HIS PART thus the mass of errors in the guide.