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Happy Turk Hoodoo
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Happy Turk, The 

The Happy Turk 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C1

   
Type:  Aid
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A0+ [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,893
Submitted By: Dan Russell on Feb 3, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Starting off the truck

Description 

I'm not sure of the direction (ie east, south) the route faces, only that it faces away from the road. So when you see it from the road driving in, the route is on the backside. It gets morning sun, so you don't have to wait in the winter to get on it.

The route is basically a bolt-ladder of six bolts, with a couple 5.8 moves required to reach the first bolt, and to move from the last bolt to the summit. It's very easy, and the bolts are solid. When we did it, we actually drove the truck right under the route and stood on the roof to reach the first bolt (very lazy, indeed).

On the summit are two good bolts with rap slings.


Protection 

Bring 6 quickdraws and aid gear.



Photos of The Happy Turk Slideshow Add Photo
The happy Turk, aid line.  set up my camera on a tripod and got this shot of me at the third bolt. glad it didn't fall over.
The happy Turk, aid line. set up my camera on a t...
Team effort on the Devil's Golf Ball.
Team effort on the Devil's Golf Ball.
Ian using the 'standard' Devil's Golfball stick clip, which consists of a 20 foot, 2" pipe we found near the base.  <br /> <br />It worked well for this climb but we decided it would be too heavy to haul up any serious routes.
Ian using the 'standard' Devil's Golfball stick cl...
January 2002
BETA PHOTO: January 2002
Ah the shadow people!
Ah the shadow people!
the Happy Turk hoodoo
the Happy Turk hoodoo
Me rapping. Photo by Christian Burrell.
Me rapping. Photo by Christian Burrell.
Dan Russell almost done
Dan Russell almost done
Dan Russell nearing the top
Dan Russell nearing the top
first base
first base
A great way to spend a cold day in the desert with old friends.
A great way to spend a cold day in the desert with...
Comments on The Happy Turk Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 2, 2012
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 24, 2002

According to the Bjornstad guide this goes free at 5.8 - though I have no idea how that is possible as it looks more like hard 5.12. There are a few empty bolt holes leading to the first bolt. You'll either need a really long cheater stick or will have to stand on the roof of a truck to clip the first bolt.

There is also an incredibly long reach between the last two bolts. If you don't want to bring a cheater stick, there is a hook placement that looks a little enhanced that would work.

Neat rock formation.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 7, 2003

Every one who wants this one better hurry and climb it soon, while it's still there!

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 9, 2005

The route is pretty loose in the middle, I parked right under the route so I could clip the first bolt, bad idea. When I was bringing up my 2nd I could hear rocks hitting my hood.

By Bryan Gartland
From: Helena, MT
Apr 1, 2007

As of March 2007 the bolts are still good and there are several cheater "stick" options for the first clip scattered around the base, courtesy of the old uranium mine up the hill. The thing is precarious but rest assured that it can at least withstand the burden of 3 dudes, a 12-pack and a stout wind.

By TuFF GonG
From: gunnison Colorado
Sep 12, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0+

Free climbing to the first bolt is hard but possible (crash pad and a spot might be a good idea). The bolts after that are a little spaced but I aided it easily with no aiders. If you free climb to the first bolt it is most definitely not 5.8

By Eric Odenthal
Sep 21, 2008

the first clip is a pain in the ass to get. brought a stick clip for that one. hangers are 1/4 inch chain. 4th clip is reachy, last clip is reachy. used a stiff draw. last move is committing in approach shoes... i was soloing, simple with sticky rubber shoes. top anchor is 1 single 1/2 inch coldshut. pretty sick fun. yellow alien would make the last move aid instead of free. can't really see a way to climb to the first bolt, again "without a spotter and crash pad."

there are two bolts on the west side to use for rappel as well.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Feb 2, 2009

What's up with the chain links?! Why not just regular hangers? It was a pain to stick clip the first one.
Still a fantastic summit and well worth the effort.

By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Feb 17, 2009

The first bolt is really hard to clip with a stick clip because the hangers are just chain links that are difficult to hook with an open quickdraw. Moving between the first couple bolts is strenuous. Pretty freaking sweet little tower, but the route isn't all the great.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 4, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1

Only one big, fat 1/2" bolt on the top now.....

By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Apr 5, 2009

Hmmm... Odd... A couple months ago there were still two additional chain anchors for rapping down the side of the tower opposite the bolt ladder.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 6, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1

Um, to be honest I didn't look down the other side. A massive hail storm had moved in so I didn't take any time to investigate - and I figured since the single bolt was so beefy, it must be the rap anchor. So the other anchor is probably still there.....

By LahDaBudz
From: moab, ut
Jan 25, 2010

the picture shows starting off the truck which is a great idea, but as of this year blm has closed the area to vehicles. still possible if you are willing to take the risk but there is a sign as you drive to the golf ball

By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Apr 1, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0+

can we call these things C if were clipping bolts? bring a short (4 foot) cheater for the last bolt. it's a bugger. we stopped on the way in and grabbed a tree stick by the creek. there's a 20 foot pipe laying there for the first bolt. great fun in a great spot. easy to find

By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Nov 22, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1

Road is still closed to vehicles, but the bar is still there.

First reachy bolt is easier to stick clip if someone stands to the side and instructs the clipper as to the height and rotation of the stick clip.

The links forced me to sacrifice a little distance by clipping draws first and then my aiders. A third aider or clipping aiders in pairs makes the overhanging bulges much easier to deal with.

I managed to get the final reachy bolt by snagging a shallow two-finger divot on my left after high-stepping. This allowed me to stay up just long enough to let go with my right hand, grab a draw, and clip the next bolt. However, if you fall you will probably land on your daisy on the last bolt. I'm 5'9" and this barely worked with some real physical effort. It would be nice to have a #0.75 C4 Camalot or so at the end, either to protect the free move or to get high enough to remove your aiders. I didn't have a cam so I left an aid ladder on the last bolt and freeclimbed to the top in my tennis shoes. Climbing shoes would have been comfier.

The other rapp anchor is still there, but I wanted to clean the route so I figured the single bolt looked good enough.

Great for snowy days.

Fun photos here

By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Dec 2, 2012

Didn't Kevin Chase do the Fa of this tower?