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Dry Creek Spire
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Black Arrow T 
Dry Creek Spire T 
Happy Ending, The T 

The Happy Ending 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Burcham, Zack Bastow
Page Views: 718
Submitted By: Mike on Jul 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Tim, beyond the groveling, enjoys a happy ending o...

Description 

P1: (5.9) Start up a slot with a crack in back. Crux is in first 20' (JMHO) and it gets easier & more fun as the slot becomes overhanging. Finishes at a bolted belay.

P2: (5.10) Continue up the mostly easy chimney system to the obvious traverse right to a bolted face. Follow the bolts up great face climbing to a bolted belay.

P3: (5.10) Ascend a short offwidth past 2 bolts to another bolt line. Follow these bolts up great moves on a nice arete to a bolted belay.

Location 

Located on the right side of the face in an obvious slot with the first belay anchors visible.

Protection 

Single set of cams from tiny thru #4 camalot, 1 #6 camalot, nuts. Rappel the route with one 70m rope. A 60 may work as well???

Description 

P1: (5.9) Start up a slot with a crack in back. Crux is in first 20' (JMHO) and it gets easier & more fun as the slot becomes overhanging. Finishes at a bolted belay.

P2: (5.10) Continue up the mostly easy chimney system to the obvious traverse right to a bolted face. Follow the bolts up great face climbing to a bolted belay.

P3: (5.10) Ascend a short offwidth past 2 bolts to another bolt line. Follow these bolts up great moves on a nice arete to a bolted belay.

Location 

Located on the right side of the face in an obvious slot with the first belay anchors visible.

Protection 

Single set of cams from tiny thru #4 camalot, 1 #6 camalot, nuts. Rappel the route with one 70m rope. A 60 may work as well???


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By Steve Skelton
From: Lyttelton, New Zealand
Jan 18, 2013

The first pitch made me puke! Serious thrutching and harder than anything on Black Arrow. Gotta hate it to love it.
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Jan 27, 2016

The most burly wide climbing is indeed off the deck in the flared v-slot. I placed the #6 here, mostly just to unburden myself. I don't really think it's necessary, as it looked like smaller gear may work here too, and the slot is pretty secure. We linked pitch 1 and 2, which worked fine as long as everything is slung long and not much gear is placed in the chimney of pitch 2. It's 35m to the ground from the anchors on pitch 2. The 3rd pitch is all bolts, no gear needed. I think the route is more like 200' long. This faces southwest, and gets sun much later than Black Arrow.

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