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West Face - Right Side
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The Hangover 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: (A3) Royal Robbins et. al., 1954, FFA: John Long, Rick Accomazzo, Rob Muir, and Mike Lechlinski, 1978
Page Views: 2,079
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Jul 15, 2010

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John Long, 1977, free-solo.

Photo captured by Off...

Description 

From the second belay of Jenson's Jaunt, climb up and right to a steep left-facing corner with a couple of fixed pins that leads up to the massive overhang. A bolt up and left protects the crux: a huge dynamic move is required.


Protection 

The old 1/4 inch bolt that protected the crux was replaced in 2008 with a nice 1/2 inch bolt by Erik Roed.



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The Hangover
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By John Long
Jul 21, 2011

Does anyone ever climb this thing? Would be interesting to see how it fares up to modern sport climbers, who are very experienced at this kind of movement.

By Justin Tomlinson
From: Monrovia, CA
Oct 28, 2012

John, I've never seen anyone on this. I've seen one party go through Pearly Gate, otherwise all traffic goes through Traitor Horn.

By ciotti
From: CA
Apr 21, 2013

I've sat just under it while hanging in our belay waiting for a slow party in front of us on the Traitor Horn. It looks epic and exposed. I though about going for it after hanging and looking at it for so long. But the party finally got moving and my partner and I didn't know the grade.

Beta? Is that one huge dyno to the rim?

By Cole Gibson
Jul 24, 2014

Well I followed my friend, Sam.F, on this route a few years ago...We were all like "A single dyno move rated 5.13 back in the day? Should be no problem for a couple dyno loving gym rats from the new age........."

Psshhhhhhhhhh! Big surprise, shit was hard and neither of could really do it. In the end I even had trouble following and pulling over the lip even while hanging from the hold you would dyno to and pulling on the damn quickdraw just to get over the lip! Was a fun day watching Sam huck for the dyno multiple times on lead at the top of Tahquitz. Way Cool!

Would love to hear about a clean repeat.

By sam.f
From: Santa Cruz, CA
Aug 2, 2014

Yea Cole and I did (tried) this thing in maybe 2009?!? I thought the moves getting to the dyno move were fun too and then...yea...huge huck. Like Cole said, I tried multiple times, and toward the end was hitting the lip (if I remember correctly) but that was a helluva swing to hold. I ended up french free dyno'ing and getting through it but I've never seen anyone else on it. Nice work John!