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The Hanging Judge 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tim Coats and Tim Toula (circa 1984), FFA John Steiger and Ray Ringle
Page Views: 4,680
Submitted By: Luis Cisneros on Jun 9, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Jerimiah Gentry on The Judge (Photo by: Helen Padi...

Description 

This is an absolutely fantastic line consisting of sustained finger locking, lay-backing and precise foot work along a slightly overhanging wall, and a few rest points.

The route starts on a ledge about 40 feet from the river. Getting there is kind of a sketchy 5.9. It is recommended to do this as an 'approach' short pitch. From there, is 100 more feet to the bolted anchors.


Location 

Directly across the river from the bottom of the rap line into the canyon.

Protection 

A good assortment of finger size cams (BD's from .3 to .75)... I recommend AT LEAST triples of each plus a few small microcams and nuts.


Photos of The Hanging Judge Slideshow Add Photo
Hanging Judge <br /> <br />Photo by Hailey Hagerty
Hanging Judge

Photo by Hailey Hagerty
Looking at the route from up on the rim.
Looking at the route from up on the rim.
Patrick nearing the anchors.
Patrick nearing the anchors.
The Judge
The Judge
Tough off fingers section and finger popping crux made it too hard for me. Mike worked his way up with some good jams.
Tough off fingers section and finger popping crux ...

Comments on The Hanging Judge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Jul 8, 2009
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

What an outstanding pitch! Bring lots of thin pro up to.75 camalot, including thin nuts for the start.

At the white ledge up high, the route traverses right a few moves, then goes up a crack system (5.10) to the anchors. The direct finish (straight up from the white ledge) is a variation that goes at 5.11a/b-ish to another anchor.
By Paul Davidson
Sep 7, 2009

I thought the FA of the Hanging Judge was Tim Coats. ~ '84 (w/ Scott?)
I don't recall RR ever climbing up here (but that doesn't mean he didn't.)
By Luis Cisneros
From: Tucson
Oct 28, 2009

Ok, that is why I put ??? signs on it... I only heard sometime ago that RR did it but never found any confirmation... so I am changing it right now.. Thanks Paul!
By Paul Davidson
Oct 29, 2009

Well Luis, I wouldn't take my memory as gospel.
It could have been Larry, but I think it was Tim.
By tcskis
Oct 30, 2009

Actually, it went like this: I climbed with a couple falls to where I believe the bolted anchor is now. Then Tim T. tried to lead the off width straight above. He didn't have enough wide gear so we traversed to the right and climbed some other wide cracks to the rim. Later, John flashed the first pitch and Ray lead the direct finish up the wide crack for the full meal deal. Very impressive performance from 2 amazing climbers. One more piece of trivia, this and King Snake were the first 2 routes climbed at the Winslow Wall. As soon as we got there, Jim and Scott jumped on King Snake and Tim and I on Hanging Judge. Any one climb the 2nd pitch anymore?
By Luis Cisneros
From: Tucson
Jan 15, 2010

well, well, good! I wondered about the FA for a long time.
I had seen the second pitch and I have to admit that it gives me the willies...
I did try the line that splits to the right after the first crux, a broken crack that supposedly goes at mid .12, and which I thought was the first pitch for the upper corner... it was hard to climb, very dirty and will be tricky to protect (I was only trying the moves on TR from the Judge anchor).
Does anybody know anything about this variation?
By CJD
From: Chino Valley, AZ
Oct 31, 2011

Those were not the first routes done at the Winslow wall. I did some FA's there in about 82 or 83 with two locals who's names I can't remember and Ken Collier who still lives in Flag. I think the local guys (Ken would remember their names) had done a few routes before I got there. I believe I took Toula there one more time and then never went back because I couldn't get any of the Flagstaff sheeple climbers to go out there. After I moved to boulder in 84 I heard about the "discovery" of the Winslow wall by Tim C. etc.
By Jeff Gicklhorn
From: Reno, NV
May 29, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Absolutely stellar pitch! Can easily lower back to the ledge with a 60m rope, or to the ground with a 70m.

For the rack, I would recommend small to medium nuts, a few micro-cams to purple Metolius, triples of fingers, four .5s, and a few .75-1s.