Jerimiah Gentry on The Judge (Photo by: Helen Padi...
This is an absolutely fantastic line consisting of sustained finger locking, lay-backing and precise foot work along a slightly overhanging wall, and a few rest points.
The route starts on a ledge about 40 feet from the river. Getting there is kind of a sketchy 5.9. It is recommended to do this as an 'approach' short pitch. From there, is 100 more feet to the bolted anchors.
Directly across the river from the bottom of the rap line into the canyon.
A good assortment of finger size cams (BD's from .3 to .75)... I recommend AT LEAST triples of each plus a few small microcams and nuts.
By Mike From: Phoenix Jul 8, 2009 rating: 5.12-7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
What an outstanding pitch! Bring lots of thin pro up to.75 camalot, including thin nuts for the start.
At the white ledge up high, the route traverses right a few moves, then goes up a crack system (5.10) to the anchors. The direct finish (straight up from the white ledge) is a variation that goes at 5.11a/b-ish to another anchor.
Actually, it went like this: I climbed with a couple falls to where I believe the bolted anchor is now. Then Tim T. tried to lead the off width straight above. He didn't have enough wide gear so we traversed to the right and climbed some other wide cracks to the rim. Later, John flashed the first pitch and Ray lead the direct finish up the wide crack for the full meal deal. Very impressive performance from 2 amazing climbers. One more piece of trivia, this and King Snake were the first 2 routes climbed at the Winslow Wall. As soon as we got there, Jim and Scott jumped on King Snake and Tim and I on Hanging Judge. Any one climb the 2nd pitch anymore?
well, well, good! I wondered about the FA for a long time. I had seen the second pitch and I have to admit that it gives me the willies... I did try the line that splits to the right after the first crux, a broken crack that supposedly goes at mid .12, and which I thought was the first pitch for the upper corner... it was hard to climb, very dirty and will be tricky to protect (I was only trying the moves on TR from the Judge anchor). Does anybody know anything about this variation?
Those were not the first routes done at the Winslow wall. I did some FA's there in about 82 or 83 with two locals who's names I can't remember and Ken Collier who still lives in Flag. I think the local guys (Ken would remember their names) had done a few routes before I got there. I believe I took Toula there one more time and then never went back because I couldn't get any of the Flagstaff sheeple climbers to go out there. After I moved to boulder in 84 I heard about the "discovery" of the Winslow wall by Tim C. etc.
By Jeff Gicklhorn From: A Climbing Mecca Near You! May 29, 2012 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
Absolutely stellar pitch! Can easily lower back to the ledge with a 60m rope, or to the ground with a 70m.
For the rack, I would recommend small to medium nuts, a few micro-cams to purple Metolius, triples of fingers, four .5s, and a few .75-1s.