The Hanged Man 5.10c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Richard Rossiter, Jessica True 2001 |
| Submitted By: | Ivan Rezucha on Oct 23, 2003 |
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BETA PHOTO: The Hanged Man. The crux is the roof at the first...
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Description The Hanged Man is the rightmost climb on Tarot Wall. There is a low roof about 10' up. The Hanged Man climbs the roof about 10' left of the roof's right edge. This is about 10' right of The Horse.
This is a one-move climb, but not a one-move wonder. The crux is a not particularly interesting roof right off the ground. Maneuver under the roof on somewhat grungy rock to reach over and make the clip. Grab a good sidepull and pop for a jug. Very easy ledges lead to a couple of 8ish moves to the anchor.
Rossiter rated this 11a. I'm tempted to call it 10a, but I'll split the difference at 10c. If you're below a certain height, or if you insist on doing it statically, then it's harder.
Protection 4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. I used a green Alien to protect the first clip. Your can toprope the roof by walking in from the right to the 2nd bolt.
Mark popping off the low crux
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G showing his strength!
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| Comments on The Hanged Man |
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 23, 2005
rating: 5.10a
| One awkward move to an easy upper climb. It isn't bad enough to 'bomb' but it isn't good enough to bother with either. There are better wastes of time around. I suppose if every other route around is full, you can justify doing this one... 40' doesn't take long at least! As well, my partner referred to this as a "trad climb with bolts on it." It would take gear just fine, but at least it's not a singular and obvious crack. |
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 8, 2005
| This route is really silly. The move at the bottom is ok, but this is one move, and it deposits you on a grassy ledge, which you then walk up a bit to some irrelevant upper moves. I really don't see why this was bolted.
Boulder the bottom move, it's not too high and the landing is fine. |
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2008
| Climb it on gear. Double rack to #0.75 Camalot will suffice.
CL |
By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Sep 21, 2008
rating: 5.10b
| The first move is fun, not a bad route overall. 2 stars. I'm 5'11" and I was able to do the move semi-statically, expect more problems if you are shorter. |
By Eckhard
From: Denver, CO
Feb 24, 2009
| This climb is done at the second bolt, that's where the rap rings should have been, or it is a boulder option with a spotter. |
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