||Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 20'
|Original: ||C0 PG13 [details]|
|FA: ||Drake Buckingham & Paul Bucher|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||461|
|Submitted By: ||paul bucher on Jul 27, 2013|
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|Raptor Closure 2016: Three Penguins 2016 Raptor Closure: All climbing routes on the Three Penguins are temporarily closed due to presence of raptors displaying breeding behavior. Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/roc... -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>
tough to get any kind of F.A. these days in the park with all the bolting rules but this little guy goes completely clean. toss your rope over, tie it off, jug up and rap back down. easy-peasy. super fun and fairly big air for such a little guy. stellar views. it's not castleton. keep your expectations realistic and you'll have a grand time. be careful on the approach bench. there are a few EXPOSED moves. rope up if necessary.
this little guy is actually visible from town. from the park av. parking lot it's up on the rim, way left, out on the point. although from this angle it appears less interesting. hike left down the road a bit to a good trail on your right. this takes you to a gully a couple hundred yards left of the parking lot. scramble up pulling a few easy 3rd class moves. at the top, move right (under a small roof) then up left to gain a large bench. follow this to the "tower" passing a couple of sketchy, way exposed, but easy 3rd class moves. you arrive above the formation. move right a bit then hard left down a slot and back around to the tower. reverse to get back down or take one of the canyon routes down to up the adventure value.
rope, ascenders, aiders, NO anchors on top